fixed : bypassing AirPort Guest Network conflict with TG712 router-modem

Question :

I’m trying to setup an AirPort Guest Network on my wireless network, so I need to set my AirPort Base Station (or Time Capsule) to “DHCP and NAT”-mode, but I have a TG712 router-modem that doesn’t have any option to turn DHCP off, so I get a “Double NAT”-error. Even my ISP’s helpdesk say they can’t help me on this one… What can I do ?

Answer :

If your router-modem can’t turn off it’s DHCP-server function, you should preferably set your AirPort Base Station (or Time Capsule) to “Bridged Mode”to get the easiest setup and the best performance. On the other hand : if your AirPort Base Station of the 3rd generation or newer (or it is a Time Capsule), then AirPort’s Guest Network mode is the easiest and safest way to give internet access to your visitors (temporary) internet-access, without giving them access to my private wireless/ethernet network. Even though your internet connection performance may slightly degrade, you can get both of these worlds combined. Here’s how :

– first, make sure that your router-modem is on, and that only one ethernet/UTP port is connected ; the ethernet/UTP-cable from that one port should go directly into your AirPort Base Station’s WAN-port and all your WiFi and Ethernet/UTP equipment should connect to the AirPort Base Station, not to the router-modem

– then open AirPort Utility (version 6 or newer – settings needed in previous versions of AirPort Utility are similar, but the user interface for setting it up is completely different) 

– click on the (large) AirPort Base Station icon

– in the popup window that opens, click on the EDIT-button

– now you’ll get the pulldown window where you can set your preferences

– select the “Internet”-tab

– set “Connect Using:” to “Static”

– if things were on “DHCP” before,  leave the rest as is… else go to “Router Address:” and type your modem-router’s IP-address (for the TG712 that would be 192.168.1.254), then at “IPv4 Address:” type an IP-address that only differs on the last digit (so 192.168.1.12 or something like it) and set “Subnet Mask:” to 255.255.255.0 ; at “DNS Servers:” type the IP-addresses of the Primary and Secondary DNS that your ISP has given you (if you can’t find those, you should be able to use Google’s Public DNSes : 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4)

– select the “Network”-tab

– set “Router Mode:” to “DHCP and NAT”

– then select the “Wireless”-tab

– there, you should put a check mark at “Enable Guest Netwok:” and give your future Guest Network a distinguishable name

– set “Guest Network Security:” to “WPA/WPA2 Personal”

– then, at “Guest Network Password:” type a password that you can easily remember, but is not like any other password you’ve ever used before

– at “Verify Password:” retype that same password

– then select the “Network”-tab again

– there, you should click on the “Network Options…”-button

– in the pulldown panel, set “DHCP Lease:” to “1 day”

– set “IPv4 DHCP Range:” to something different than your router-modem’s DHCP range , so if your router-modem is at IP-address 192.168.1.254 (like the TG712), set it to something like “192.168.2.2 to 200”

– then set “Guest IPv4 DHCP Range:” to yet another range than the router-modem and the primary wireless network – in this example that would be something like “10.0.3.2 to 200”

– put a check mark at “Enable NAT Port Mapping Protocol”

– and do not put a check mark at “Enable default host at:”

– then click SAVE

– and click UPDATE

– in the “AirPort Base Station has closed down” warning window, click OK, and wait…

– you might get a question whether you approve that the “Double NAT” error should not be regarded as an error – if so, click OK

– after that, log into your modem-router and set it’s wireless to “Off” and make sure you set a non-standard password for accessing the router-modem !! (*) (else your visitors can still mess with your network pretty easily)

– Done ! enjoy !

Note : if you have an iPhone or iPad, you can use the free AirPort Utility app to switch your Guest Network quickly ON or OFF now… (for instructions look here)

——————————————————————————————————-

(*) if you have a Speedtouch / Thomson / Technicolor TG712 router-modem (e.g. the one that used to be provided by dutch ISP’s KPN and Wanadoo / Orange / Online / T-Mobile), you should do this as follows :

– in Safari (or any other internet browser) type 192.168.1.254 as the URL

– now your web based control panel for your TG712 router-modem will open

– go to “Home Network” (in the menu on the left) —> “Devices” (in the menu on the left) —> “Configure” (in the upper right corner) and delete the check mark at “Interface enabled:”

– then go to “Toolbox” (in the menu on the left) —> “User administration” (in the menu on the left) and write down the Login (= User name) that is listed there, you will need it later

– the click on “Change My Password” (the link in the middle at the bottom)

– in the page that opens, at “Old password” type nothing (leave blank – there is no preset password), and at “New password” type a password that you’ve never used before and that is hard to crack (if you can’t make up one yourself, you can use OSX’s internal password generator to suggest one to you – look here for instructions) and retype that password at “Confirm new password:”

– then click on the “Cange password”-button and wait for your router-modem to restart

– then login to your router-modem again – this time your will be asked for your login name and password, type both of them and put a check mark at “have OSX Keychain remember these”

– wait for the the web based control panel to open, and then exit by closing the page in your browser

– Done !

Note : don’t be afraid to use a password on your router-modem that you can’t easily remember… if you have it remembered by OSX Keychain you don’t have to… and even if you completely lose the password, you can still reset the modem-router to factory defaults by pressing the RESET button that is on the modem-router housing…

info : could it be my Eye-Fi disturbs Bluetooth ?

Question :

I’ve just installed a Eye-Fi’s WiFi-enabled SD/SDHD-memorycard into my digital camera, and ever since I did so, my Apple Bluetooth mouse is jiggly… it doesn’t fully respond to the movements I make and seems to be disconnected most of the time, even though my Mac isn’t reporting a disconnected mouse… could it be these things have to do with each other ?

 

Answer :

I’ve not found any info on this on the internet, but I seem to have the exact she problem myself. Since the Eye-Fi card can only use WiFi over 2.4GHz, and there are a lot of other peripherals also using the 2.4GHz band (e.g. Bluetooth-connections), this just might be the case…

The easy solution is exactly what one would expect :

if you make sure that your Eye-Fi-camera stays at least 1.5 meters from your Mac and any Bluetooth-peripherals, you will see that your mouse will start responding normally to your movements…

tip : OSX’s built in password generator

Question :

It seems like I have to come up with a new password for each new device and each new  web service I’m using. My inspiration for new passwords has dried up. Can you help me ?

Answer :

————– UPDATED ANSWER —————

an updated answer to this question can be found in this post :
fixed : easily generate a new random password in macOS

————– ORIGINAL ANSWER —————

There is a random password generator already built into OSX that is free for you to use.

It’s called Password Assistant and you can access it by opening the Keychain Access app and clicking on the ‘+’-icon in the lower menu bar, then in the pulldown window that appears, click on the ‘black key’-icon ; that will open up the password generator window of Password Assistant.

In Password Assistant, you can choose from 5 types of passwords : Manual, Memorable, Letters & Numbers, Numbers Only, Random or FIPS-181 compliant. Then it will tell you the quality (strenght) of your password in a colored status bar, and if your not satisfied with the suggested password, you can click on the ‘black triangle’-icon and you will be shown some alternative suggestions.

If you’ve found your ‘ideal’ password, select it and copy (press ‘CDM’+’C’) and paste it onto the desired location.

When you’re done, click the CANCEL-button to exit and close Keychain Manager.

but… since this very helpful function is rather hidden within OSX, someone called CodePoet has written a FREE launch script (back in 2006) that you can install and use just like a regular application. Too bad that for some reason CodePoet’s website has stopped working, so all download links you will find will get you nowhere.

Luckily, a Dutch website called appletips.nl is hosting a mirror of the download (and they’ve added Dutch language support) – Thank you apple tips.nl ! Since there was no icon, I’ve added one myself and renamed it into OSX Password Assistant Launcher, a name that better suits what the script actually does (but you can change that yourself if you don’t agree). And now you can download it here also :

OSX-Password-Assistant-Launcher-zip

Note : the file will have a .zip.doc-extension after you’ve downloaded it, please change that into a regular .zip-extension manually and then unZIP the file

fixed : getting the Places location-tagging to work in iPhoto 9 (iLife ’11)

Question :

Since my digital photo camera doesn’t support GPS, I was using the Places function in iPhoto 8 to add the locations to my photos. But since I upgraded to iLife’11 and iPhoto 9, I can’t get any photo to accept the location I’m trying to add to it when in Places-mode ; I type the location, then my entry immediately disappears and nothing happens. How can I fix this ?

Answer :

iPhoto 9 versions 9.0, 9.1 and 9.2 have a bug which prevents you form adding locations to individual photos, so there’s only 2 solutions :

1- upgrade to iPhoto 9.3 (because in this latest update this bug seems to be fixed… this is by far the easiest solution)

2- or you can use use this workaround, which is based on the fact that in iPhoto 9.0, 9.1 and 9.2 you can still use the Places-functionality on complete Events :

– in iPhoto, go to Library (on the menu on the left) –> Events

– open the Event in which the photos are that you want to tag with a location

– select all photos (and only those) that were taken in one specific location

– go to Events (on the menu bar on top) –> Split Event and you will then have a separate Event containing only these photos

– then select this new event, and click on the ‘black circle with an I’ icon (a.k.a. Info) in the lower right corner

– now the Faces & Places pane will slide in from the right

– now select ‘Assign a Place…’ just above the map, and type in the name of the location that you want to tag on these photos

– if one of the suggestions that come up in the pull down menu is the location you want, click it – else, just leave it at the name you’ve typed yourself (FYI- iPhoto gets these suggested locations from Google and form the locations that you have previously assigned)

– now make sure that the flag is on the right place in the map

– then correct the name that is indicated for that flag to the name that you would like to remember this location by and press the ENTER-key to validate

– now your photos have the right location tag to it (check this by selecting one and seeing where on the map the Places-flag is)

– then go back to the Events-view by clicking on the black All Events arrow in the upper left

– then select the ‘untitled event’ and drag it (back) onto the event that these newly-location-tagged photos used to be in, to merge the two events back together (you might need to set the ‘Key Photo’ event-icon again)

– then go through this process again for every location that you want to tag…

…as I mentioned before : this is just a workaround, upgrading to iPhoto 9.3 is far easier…

tip : Mac games that will no longer run under OSX Lion

Question :

I’m thinking about buying some Mac games for my children to play with. But I’ve noticed that some of the games we played under OSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard” do no longer startup under OSX 10.7 “Lion”. How do I know if a Mac game will work under OSX 10.7 “Lion” before I buy it ?

Answer :

Since OSX 10.7 “Lion”, Apple does no longer include the “Rosetta” engine that enabled software that was originally developed for PowerPC/PPC-Macs to run on Intel-Macs. That is why a lot of ‘old’ software that used to run fine even under the Intel-only OSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard” do no longer startup in OSX 10.7 “Lion”.

In “Lion” the game’s icon will have a grey ‘no entry’ sign over the icon to indicate that the software is not compatible.

Alas… there’s no definite way to be sure about any game before you buy… even games with indications like “Mac”, “X”, “Mac-compatible” or even “MacOSX-compatible” can turn out incompatible with Mac OSX “Lion”…

But you have some options :

1- if the info on the game says “Mac compatibility : Mac OS 9.x and Mac OS X 10.x” or something like that, rest assured that this game won’t run under OSX 10.7 “Lion”

2- if the info on the game says “Mac compatibility : Mac OSX 10.6 or newer”, you can be sure that the game will run under OSX 10.7 “Lion” (too bad though that even now very few games have this indication…)

3- if the game is available in the Mac App Store, it is compatible with Mac OSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard” and Mac OSX 10.7 “Lion”, as the Mac App Store is not compatible with earlier versions of Mac OSX (this does however say nothing regarding the compatibility of the game itself with earlier versions of Mac OSX…)

4- look up the game on the website of the publisher (not on any other site) to see if they have any info on Mac OSX 10.7 “Lion” compatibility in specific before you buy, in that case you are 100% sure that if the game still turns out not to run, you can have the problem solved or the product refunded

Note : info on a resellers website is often incorrect (and never 100% surely accurate), and user reviews are a always an interesting general indication (but they’re never 100% accurate either…)

5- search on the internet to find any info on compatibility, but keep in mind that even though “incompatible” will mean it won’t run with about 99% certainty, the opposite is NOT TRUE ! “not incompatible” does never mean “definitely compatible” !!!

——————————————————————————————————

I’ve made this list of games that I had running under MacOSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard”, but will NOT run under MacOSX 10.7 “Lion” any longer :

3D Cartoon Studio

Airbust Extreme

Atomic Betty – Het Kosmos Complot (Atomic Betty – Intergalactic Conspiracy)

BongoBoogie

Bumba

Dora the Explorer – Backpack

Dora the Explorer – Lost City

Engie Benjy – Kom op Team! (Engy Benjy – Time For TeamWork!)

Disney/Pixar’s Finding Nemo

Laura’s Ster (Laura’s Star)

LEGO – Star Wars (demo) * [ a.k.a. “LEGO Star Wars 1” ]

Matchbox – Crosstown Heroes

Noddy (Noddy and the Toyland Fair)

Noddy en de Magische Klok (Noddy and the Magic Clock)

Pluk van de Petteflet

Disney/Pixar’s The Incredibles

Disney/Pixar’s The Incredibles – Rise of the Underminer

Disney/Pixar’s The Incredibles – When Danger Calls

ToySight Game (demo)

Traffic Jam Extreme

* Note : LEGO Star Wars 1 was published by Aspyr, contrary to all later similar LEGO games that were published by Feral Interactive (these include LEGO Batman, LEGO Star Wars II, LEGO Star Wars III Clones Wars, LEGO Star Wars Complete Saga, LEGO Indiana Jones The Original Adventure, LEGO Indiana Jones 2 The Adventure Continues, LEGO Harry Potter Years 1-4, LEGO Harry Potter 2 Years 5-7, etc.)  – to my knowledge, all LEGO Games by Feral Interactive are compatible with Mac OSX 10.7 “Lion” and most of them are even available on the Mac App Store 

Some games that used to run fine under Mac OSX 10.5 “Leopard”, but haven’t tested under either Mac OSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard” or Mac OSX 10.7 “Lion”, so they might or might not run… :
Burning Monkey Solitaire 4
Disney/Pixar’s Cars (a.k.a. “Cars racing game”) [ note : the installer won’t work, but the game will run ]
Disney/Pixar’s Cars – Radiator Springs Adventure
Mac Donald’s Dragons
Kung Fu Panda (demo)
Disney/Pixar’s Ratatouille [ note : the installer doesn’t work, but the game will run ]
Disney/Pixar’s UP
Disney/Pixar’s WALL•E
Note : if you need any info on how to install any of the above games under Mac OSX 10.6 “Snow Leopard” or earlier (which in some cases is not straight forward)… please ask 😉

fixed : how to delete undeletable files

Question :

I have recently cleaned up my Mac by putting a lot of old and unused files into the Trash (after backing them up to an external hard drive). But now, when I try to empty the Trash, some files remain, they seem undeletable… I even get a warning I can’t delete them… even a Forced Empty-ing of the Trash doesn’t work… but I’m completely sure I want to get rid of these files…

Isn’t there any way to delete them ?

Answer :

Yes – there is.

These ‘undeletable’ files are so-called “system immutable”, which basically means they cannot be changed or deleted even by the Root (super user) in the Terminal. Even switching to “Single User” mode and attempting to remove them won’t work.

Here’s what to do :

– restart your Mac in “Safe Boot” mode (press the SHIFT-key during startup ; as soon as you notice it takes a lot longer to boot than usual, you can take your finger of the keyboard, but even then it may take some time for you Mac to completely startup, so be patient…)

– now, log in as an administrator (i.e. using the/an account that has Administrator-rights)

– then, empty the Trash…

…that’s it. Done !

Thanks to SpiderJay for sharing this solution (he also found this solution somewhere on the internet), he originally posted it on his blog :

http://www.spiderjay.com/blog/?p=37

…but that link doesn’t work anymore, that’s why I’ve now posted it here 

fixed : upgrading the firmware on a Seagate Momentus XT hybrid drive

Question :

I’ve heard that upgrade in the firmware on my Seagate Momentus XT hard drive will vastly improve the drive’s speed and stability. But… how do I do that ?

Answer :

Here’s a little tutorial :

– put OSX Lion installer on a 4GB USB stick, instructions can be found here :

http://blog.gete.net/lion-diskmaker-us/

– burn the Seagate firmware update on a CDrom and printout the instructions :

http://knowledge.seagate.com/articles/en_US/FAQ/215451en

– shut down and completely unplug
– plug in the USB stick
– put the firmware upgrade CDrom in the drive
– startup pressing the ALT key and choose the “EFI Boot” (USB installer) to boot from
– then install the basic OSX EFI
– continue and open Disk Utility
– select the 500.11 GB Seagate disk and Erase to a “Mac OS Extended (Journaled)” format (to get a one-partition OSX HFS+ formatted drive)
– then click on the “Info” button and write down the name exactly and completely (e.g. “Seagate ST…..AS Media”)
– exit and restart pressing the ALT key
– now choose the CDrom called “Windows” to reboot from
– when you’re done reading the README, press the ESC key
– press the right key on your keyboard to install the firmware that is right for your model (as outlined in the instructions you’ve printed)
NOTE : in my case the firmware is refusing to upgrade because I have TD27, and that can’t be upgraded to SD28… [*]
– restart normally (booting from the internal drive) ; done !

[*] update : I found a way to upgrade in that case also, go here for more info :

fixed : update firmware TD27 to SD28

 

Some extra info on the firmware revisions :

v28 is the newest, fastest and most stable to date (June 2012)

v27 was never released as an upgrade, it just came preinstalled on some drives ; since it cannot be upgraded to v28, chances are that is nearly the same as v28

v26 wasn’t released as an upgrade either, it also came preinstalled on some OEM-drives (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer ; which in this case means “separately sold as a spare part”)

v25 was also never released as an upgrade ; it is even doubtful if it was even preinstalled on any OEM-version

v24 was the previous upgrade version, but it turned out to be problematic in some cases

v23 was the upgrade version before that, which also had stability problems and erratic behavior

about firmware versions v22 and earlier very little is known