fixed : Smart Thermostat is too large for the space I have next to my radiator

Question :

I want to install Smart Thermostats on all my radiators, but some of our radiators are in a cove where I a regular smart Thermostat won’t fit because it’s too bulky. There just isn’t enough space to screw the Smart Thermostat onto the radiator valve, there’s only 78mm of space.

What options do I have ?

 

Answer :

Most Smart Thermostats are bulky because you need to install 2 AA penlite batteries inside the Smart Thermostat. The TP-Link KE-100 Kasa Smart Thermostat is 88mm in length and even the Tado Smart Thermostat is 80mm in length. So, even if your radiator valve is M30x1.5 the space you have is too small… so, you only have 2 options :

(1) the Fibaro “The Heat Controller” FGT-001 which is only 75mm in length, because it isn’t powered by AA penlite batteries, but by a built-in rechargeable battery that can be charged through a mini-USB cable

Note #1 : the Fibaro FGT-001 comes in 2 versions : an Apple HomeKit-compatible version and a non-HomeKit-compatible Z-Wave version that is compatible with Google Home and Amazon Alexa

Note #2 : the Fibaro FGT-001 (HomeKit version) is rather easy to install and program, but the Fibaro FGT-001 (Z-Wave version) is slightly more difficult to install end harder to program, and you will also need a Z-Wave Hub (a.k.a. “Z-Wave Controller”) but it’s extremely programmable

(2) use a perpendicular M30x1.5 angle adapter to get your Smart Thermostat pointing in a more convenient direction, like this one :

Oventrop Angle Adapter for M30x1.5 radiator valves

That’s it – you choose 😉

enjoy !

fixed : adapter for Smart Thermostat on slightly smaller Comap radiator valve

Question :

I want to install Smart Thermostat knobs onto my radiators, and on most of my radiator valves I succeed without problems, even without adapters, but on some the thread just won’t fit, even with the adapters that are included with the Smart Thermostat. These radiator valves seem to have a slightly smaller thread and the original head is branded “Comap”. Still, I can’t find adapters for “Comap” anywhere…

Which adapter do I need ?

Answer :

Most Smart Thermostats can be screwed onto any M30x1.5 radiator valve (which is sort-of the standard these days) and most Smart Thermostats come with some adapters (usually for RA, RAV and RAVL valves) but the “Comap” head you are talking about is a M28x1.5 (usually referred to as a “Heart” (or “Herz” in German) valve.

So all you need to do is find the right adapter. For your “Comap” valve that is a M28x1.5-to-M30x1.5 adapter. All Tado Smart Thermostats do have this adapter included, but if your Smart Thermostat is from a different brand, you will need an adapter like this one :

Heimeier / Herz adapter (buy it on Amazon)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : 70mai Dash Cam only records one segment then stops

Question :

I have a 70mai Dash Cam Pro+ A800 with the RC06 Rear Cam which works great, but I happened to notice that it only records the 1st minute of every time I drive my car after starting. So, in the 70mai.app, when I go into the album, I can see recordings from both the Dash Cam and the Rear Cam, and I can see all types of recordings, like parking and emergency recordings, but of every regular journey only the first minute is recorded. So for some reason loop recording is not working as intended.

What is wrong and how can I fix it ?

Answer :

As it turns out, not every microSD card that meets the official requirements (a microSD SDXC U3 card of Class 10 or above with at least 32GB) works with the 70mai Dash Cam Pro+ A800/A800S 4K UltraHD (with RC06 Rear Cam).

The only microSD card that is sure to work as intended with this Dash Cam is the Samsung EVO Plus SDXC U3 Class 10 A2 130MB/s of at least 32GB, so we recommend something like this :

Samsung EVO Plus SDXC U3 Class 10 A2 130MB/s 128GB

Just replace your current microSD card with one of the above mentioned Samsung EVO Plus microSD cards, have the Dash Cam format it and you’re good to go !

enjoy 😉

fixed : problems installing Fibaro Z-Wave Smart Thermostat and Room Sensor

Question :

I have chosen to install the Fibaro “The Heat Controller” in my home, and even though I have the Fibaro Z-Wave Home Center 3 Lite controller/hub already installed, I can’t get The Heat Controller (Z-Wave version) Smart Thermostat to connect to it. Whenever I try to connect from the Fibaro Yubii.app it can’t find the Smart Thermostat.

How do I set up the connection ?

Answer :

To install a Fibaro “The Heat Controller” (Z-Wave version) FGT-001 Smart Thermostat (that also comes in a Starter Pack combo teamed with the Fibaro FGBRS-001 Room Sensor), do this :

  • make sure you have the Yubii.app installed on your iPhone
  • make sure you have a ‘Z-Wave controller’ (a Z-Wave protocol hub/bridge device) set up, the most basic one that Fibaro offers is the Home Center 3 Lite
  • to prevent connection problems temporarily unmount/unscrew the Smart Thermostat from the radiator and make sure you have the Smart Thermostat near your Z-Wave bridge
  • >> if theSmart Thermostat is completely new, you will need to charge it first ; so plug in a micro-USB cable and power that using any USB (phone) charger, USB battery pack or USB wall outlet ; if the Smart Thermostat is fully charged it’s LED ring will flash in green
  • then, in the setting of your wireless router, make sure the WiFi is (temporarily) set to “2.4GHz only”
  • then, open the Yubii.app
  • in the Yubii.app on the main page, click the More button (bottom right)
  • in the MENU page that opens, click Add Devices
  • in the Z-Wave page that opens, wait until there is only one huge “Z-Wave protocol” button, then click on it
  • in the Add Device page that opens, click the blue Start button (bottom right)
  • on the next page, you will see a countdown circle of 60 seconds (so you now have 60 seconds to add the Smart Thermostat)
  • now, on the Smart Thermostat, long-press the small bubble button (so, press it for at least 1 second)
  • the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat should now light up (in blue)
    • >> if not, try again
  • if the LED ring is blue, triple press the small bubble button (so, press it for 3 times in a row)
  • the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat should now start blinking (in white)
  • >> if it does not, triple press the small bubble button again (and again, and again) with 1 second pauses until the LED ring starts blinking (in white)
  • >> if the circular countdown timer in the Yubii.app reaches 0 seconds before you get the LED ring blinking (on the Smart Thermostat) just try again
  • when the Smart Thermostat is recognised, just wait for the connection process to finish
  • when the connection has been established, the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat will change to let you know it was successful
  • >> if it was not, just try again
  • basically you’re ready now, so you can screw the Smart Thermostat back onto the radiator and start setting the scenes (operation programs) for the Smart Thermostat
  • do not forget to switch your WiFi setting back to “2.4 & 5GHz”
  • >> note #1 : in the Yubii.app you can only select scenes that you have already programmed ; all new scenes need to be programmed on the ‘Z-Wave controller’ first ( using the local web interface that you need to access from your browser ; if you have a Fibaro Home Center, access it by going to https://find.fibaro.com )
  • >> note # 2 : if screwing the Smart Thermostat back onto the radiator is difficult, turn the head knob of the Smart Thermostat until the LED ring flashes in red and you hear it buzzing (that will take the pressure of the valve inside the thermostat knob)

If you also want to connect the Fibaro “Temperature Sensor” FGBRS-001 Room Sensor (if you already have the Smart Thermostat installed) do this :

  • make sure you have the Yubii.app installed on your iPhone
  • make sure you have a ‘Z-Wave controller’ (a Z-Wave protocol hub/bridge device) set up, the most basic one that Fibaro offers is the Home Center 3 Lite
  • to prevent connection problems temporarily unmount/unscrew the Smart Thermostat (the one that you want to integrate the Room Sensor with) from the radiator and make sure you have the Smart Thermostat near your Z-Wave bridge
  • then, in the setting of your wireless router, make sure the WiFi is (temporarily) set to “2.4GHz only”
  • now, take out the plastic battery initiation strap from the Room Sensor (if it’s still there)
  • >> if there is no strap, the Room Sensor may have been used before and/or the the battery may be dead so the next installation steps will not work until you resolve this
  • >> if the battery is dead, use a coin to twist open the battery compartment and replace the battery first ( you will need a 3.0V CR2032 battery cell )
  • >> if the Room Sensor has been used before, it might still be connected/paired to other Smart Thermostats so you will need to reset it first, so use the F-marked pin to long press (press and hold) the button inside the hole for at least 2 seconds ; if the LED light on the Room Sensor blinks 3 times, the unpairing has succeeded (just try again if unsuccessful)
  • to continue the installation, open the Yubii.app
  • in the Yubii.app on the main page, click the More button (bottom right)
  • in the MENU page that opens, click Add Devices
  • in the Z-Wave page that opens, wait until there is only one huge Z-Wave button, then click on it
  • in the Add Device page that opens, click the blue Start button (bottom right)
  • on the next page, you will see a countdown circle of 60 seconds (so you now have 60 seconds to add the Room Sensor)
  • now, on the Smart Thermostat, press the small bubble button (so, press it once) for at least 1 second
  • the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat should now start blinking (in blue)
  • if not, just try pressing the small bubble button again
  • while the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat is blinking, use the F-marked pin that came with the Room Sensor to press the click button inside the small hole on the back of the Room Sensor
  • clicking the Room Sensor’s button is successful if a small light on the back of the Room Sensor lights up
  • if not, try pressing the click button inside the small hole again
  • Now, the LED ring on the Smart Thermostat should blink 5 times (in green) to indicate that the connection was successful 
  • if not, try pressing the click button inside the small hole again
  • if the countdown circle in the Yubii.app hits 0 seconds before you have the connection set up, just try again
  • That’s it
  • Do not forget to set your WiFi back to “2.4 & 5GHz”

enjoy !

fixed : Storage Full error warning on AppleWatch 3

Question :

I have an AppleWatch 3 (or Series 3 as it is officially called) and a few days ago, an warning message popped up saying there its memory is full.

The warning reeds :
Storage Full Try removing music or photos using the AppleWatch app on iPhone.

but… when I go to the Watch app on my iPhone, there are no photos or music that I can erase…

What can I do to solve this ?

Answer :

In case you get a ‘Storage Full’ warning and you have an AppleWatch Series 3, your only option is to Unpair & Update, as you cannot erase any content manually. If you have a newer AppleWatch (an SE-Series, Series 4 or up) you can erase some content manually, so you could restart you AppleWatch and see if that helps, or you could try freeing up space by deleting media or apps. Here’s how to Unpair & Update :

  • on your iPhone, open the Watch-app
  • now, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together during the entire process (so the connection between the two will not be broken)
  • in the Watch-app, click the My Watch icon (bottom left) first, then click “My Watches” (top left)
  • in the “All Watches” window that opens, make sure that the AppleWatch you want to unpair is selected ( not really relevant if you only have one AppleWatch )
  • then, click on the INFO-icon (the i-in-a-circle icon) next to the selected AppleWatch
  • in the “Apple Watch” window that opens, click on “Unpair Apple Watch” (bottom left)
  • then, type your AppleID password when asked
  • note : upon request, make sure to select to keep your cellular plan if you have a GPS+Cellular AppleWatch
  • now click to confirm the unpairing
  • note : if you get a message that the unpairing might have gone wrong, and the AppleWatch is no longer listed in the Watch-app on your iPhone, try resetting your AppleWatch by long-pressing the Side Button until the SOS-slider appears ; then click the power button that also appeared (top right) ; if that still doesn’t unpair the AppleWatch properly, select “Erase all content” from the Settings menu
  • note : upon request, disable Activation Lock by entering your AppleID password
  • your iPhone will now create a backup of your AppleWatch’s content & apps before erasing your AppleWatch (if needed, you can use that backup to restore to a ‘clean’ Apple Watch)
  • after the AppleWatch has been erased, start by setting it up as a new AppleWatch
  • to do so, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together and follow the onscreen instructions
  • when done, you have a ‘new’ (but ’empty’) AppleWatch, and the latest available version of WatchOS will be installed
  • now, you will probably want to reinstall your apps & content from your backup – to do so, do this :
  • unpair the AppleWatch again
  • then setup your AppleWatch once again from your iPhone, but this time, upon request, choose “restore from backup” (not “set up as new”)

that’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : EyeTV 4 crashes after installing macOS 13 Ventura

Question :

Today I have upgraded to macOS 13 Ventura. Now the EyeTV 4 (64bit) app no longer works. The app doesn’t open, it seems to crash, because a Report or Ignore “Send to Apple” window opens… I’ve tried downloading the latest version of EyeTv from the Geniatech website, but even after installing that, the only thing that I get after starting the app is the Report or Ignore window…

Is there any way to fix this ?

Answer :

For macOS 13 Ventura, you will need at least build 8528 of the EyeTV 4 app. You can download it from the Geniatech website :

http://file.geniatech.com/eyetv4/EyeTV4.0.0_8528.dmg

After installation, you might need to go through the setup steps again… here are some tips if you need to do so :

  • make sure you have your licence number at hand, as you might be asked to enter it anew
  • make sure you select the proper version of the EyeTV-stick you have [ note : the MyGica DVB-T2 is not listed separately, so make sure to select its hardware-twin, the EyeTV Hybrid T2 ]
  • make sure you select the right input source : choose DVB-T/T2 if you have an aerial antenna connected, and choose DVB-C PAL BG if you have a coaxial from you cable-TV provider plugged in

that’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : frozen Dock in macOS ( Dock not responding )

Question :

For some reason, when I started/opened my Mac today and tried to open an app by clicking on it’s icon in the Dock… nothing happened. The Dock didn’t respond… I couldn’t get any app, folder or file to open by clicking on it’s icon in the Dock…

I found a workaround by opening the search window (by clicking on the magnifier icon top right in the macOS menu bar), then typing the application’s name and starting it from there.

But, I want this fixed… what can I do to get the Dock working properly ?

Answer :

There isn’t a clear reason why the macOS Dock freezes up from time to time… so there is no solution that will work in all cases, but to get the macOS Dock working properly again try these (in this order) :

1 – try upgrading to the most up-to-date version of macOS :

  • in the macOS Menu Bar, click on the Apple-icon top left
  • in the pulldown menu that opens, click on “System Preferences” (or “System Settings”)
  • in the System Preferences window (System Settings window) that opens, click on “Software Update” ( the gear / sprocket icon )
  • in the Software Update window that opens, see if there are any new updates to macOS available
  • if there are any, update a.s.a.p. by following the on-screen instructions
  • if there are none, try the next option

2- try restarting your macOS :

  • in the macOS Menu Bar, click on the Apple-icon top left
  • in the pulldown menu that opens, click on “Restart” and follow the on-screen instructions
  • after your Mac has restarted, check if your macOS Dock works now
  • it the Dock now works properly ; great ! well done ! enjoy !
  • if the Dock still doesn’t respond, you can try restarting your Mac by using the “Shut down” option …or try the next option

3- try resetting the Dock using the Terminal.app :

  • in the macOS Menu Bar, click on the magnifier-icon top right
  • in the search field that opens, type “terminal”
  • click on the Terminal.app in the list that appears
  • in the Terminal window that opens, don’t be distracted by the info displayed, just type the following :
  • killall Dock
  • then press Return
  • most of the time it only takes a flash of a second to rested the Dock, sometimes it takes a few moments
  • now quit the Termini.app
  • then click on any app icon in the Dock to see if it starts up and the Dock behaves as expected
  • if it does ; great ! well done ! enjoy !
  • chances this doesn’t work are very, very low… so if this didn’t work, redo the reset of the Dock using the Terminal.app again before trying your last options : keep using a work-around (as mentioned above) until Apple releases a macOS upgrade …or reinstalling macOS on your Mac.

that’s it !

enjoy 😉