fixed : SPL-C ERROR page printed by Samsung printer

Question :

when I tried to print to my Samsung printer via my Home-network today, the spooling process was very slow, then hung, and then a printed page rolled out of the printer with this text only :

SPL-C ERROR – Disconnected from Host. Please check the connection and try again.

POSITION : 0x3dc5 (252981)

SYSTEM : src_5.59/os_hook

LINE : 1978

VERSION : SPL-C 5.59 05-04-2012

So I restarted the printer, made sure there wasn’t any paper stuck, and tried again. This time I the spooling process was very slow again, hung again, and a similar page rolled out of the printer with this text :

SPL-C ERROR – Disconnected from Host. Please check the connection and try again.

POSITION : 0x15ea5 (89765)

SYSTEM : src_5.59/os_hook

LINE : 1978

VERSION : SPL-C 5.59 05-04-2012

So despite the difference in ‘position’, the problem remained.

What can I do to solve this ?

 

Answer :

This seems to be a weird bug popping up on some Samsung printers connected to Macs once in a while. To solve this problem, do this :

  • quit any printing jobs that are active
  • shut down the printer (take the power cable out)
  • on your Mac, go to System Settings > Printers & Scanners
  • there, delete the problematic printer (by selecting it in the list and clicking the minus-button)
  • then, restart your Mac
  • switch the printer back on (reconnect the power cable)
  • login on your Mac
  • go to System Settings > Printers & Scanners
  • add the printer to the list again (by clicking on the plus-button, and selecting it from the printers found)
  • then close the System Preferences and try printing your document again

That’s it !

enjoy ūüėČ

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fixed : USB-to-Ethernet-adapter not working on Nintendo Switch

Question :

I would prefer to connect our new Nintendo Switch gaming console to the Internet using a cable, as I did with our Nintendo Wii-U. But the USB-to-Ethernet-adapter that was working perfectly on our Wii-U isn’t even recognized by the new Nintendo Switch.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

There are 2 sides to this problem, and you might even have to take care of both :

-1-

To use a wired ethernet-connection on the Nintendo Switch, you need to keep the Switch tablet inside the base station. If the tablet isn’t inside the base station, the Switch can’t access the wired ethernet-connection, as there is no wireless connection between the tablet and the base station. Even when docked in the base station, it is the Switch tablet that connects to WiFi directly. There is no WiFi-module inside the base station.

So, follow these steps to get it to work :

  • open the lid on the back of the base station and unplug the power adapter-cable
  • make sure the ethernet-cable is connected to your modem router
  • plug the ethernet-cable into your USB-to-Ethernet-adapter
  • plug the USB-to-Ethernet-adapter into the base station (preferably the USB-port under the lid on the back, as that is a USB3-port)
  • then replug the power adapter-cable into the base station and close the lid
  • then put the Switch tablet into the base station and turn on your TV
  • Go to Settings, then Internet, then Test Connection
  • If the info listed says “Wired Connection” you’re okay and your Internet connection speed will be displayed in a few seconds
  • If not, repeat the above steps and make sure all cables are plugged in properly

-2-

The Nintendo Switch gaming console will only accept USB-to-Ethernet-adapters that are based on the ASIX AX88179 chipset. The only officially supported USB-to-Ethernet-adapter is the Hori NSW-004U Switch LAN Adapter, but any adapter based on the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work perfectly.

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.com here

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.co.uk here

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.de here

Or you can spare yourself some money by buying one of these (note that these are all USB3, which makes them a cheaper and faster alternative to the Hori-adapter that is only USB2) :

buy the alternatively TRENDnet USB3 Wired Network Adapter on Amazon.com here

buy the alternatively uGREEN USB3 Gigabit Network Adapter on Amazon.co.uk here

buy the alternatively Plugable USB3-E1000 Adapter on Amazon.de here

 

enjoy ūüėČ

fixed : broken power adapter for Umax SOHO ethernet switch

Question :

I have an old Umax SOHO 1OHO8 ethernet switch that I would like to use in my LAN-network, but the power adapter has a very strange problem : one of the pins that go into the wall power outlet has come loose, and now ‘retracts’ whenever I plug the power outlet.

I already tried gluing the pin back into the power adapter with superglue, but I can’t fasten it, so it keeps coming loose. I also tried using an adapter plug, but I couldn’t find one that enabled me to keep the pin from retracting…

What can I do to fix this ?

 

Answer :

Just buy a new one.

You probably won’t be able to find the original one, but you will be able to find a new generic one with the correct specs.

The specs of the Umax SOHO 1OHO8 power adapter are :

  • AC input 230V (so 100-240V will do)
  • DC output 7.5V¬†1A (= 1000mA)
  • output plug/pin 5.5×2.1mm (= 5.5mm outside diameter & 2.1mm opening diameter inside)
  • output plug/pin polarity : MINUS outside & PLUS inside

You can get a US-version replacement here : US power adapter 7.5V 1A 5.5×2.1mm

You can get a UK-version replacement here : UK power adapter 7.5V 1A 5.5×2.1mm

You can get a EU-version replacement here : EU power adapter 7.5V 1A 5.5×2.1mm¬† (note that this one actually has a 5.5×2.5mm plug that is compatible with 5.5×2.1mm)

enjoy !

fixed : use one printer in two networks at the same time

Question :

I have a network printer on my (private) network that I would like to make available to the people on my AirPort Guest Network, but I don’t want guests to access my private network.

Is there a way to do this ?

 

Answer :

There are options to do this, but it can’t be done the way you would find most elegant probably… the problem is the restriction in AirPort Guest Networks that users can’t connect to each other, so adding the printer to the AirPort Guest Network won’t make it available to any AirPort Guest Network user.

On the other hand, an other restriction on most network printers is that they only have one Ethernet-card that is shared between the UTP-cable port and the WiFi connection, so the cable-connection and the WiFi-connection will always have the same IP-address, making it impossible to connect the cable to your private network and joining the Guest Network using the WiFi-connection at the same time…

Your best option is to connect the Ethernet/UTP-cable and/or the printer’s WiFi to your private network and creating a separate network to be used as a Guest Network to which the printer can be connected using it’s USB-cable. Since you will need an extra wireless router or an extra (secondhand) AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule to create this separate Guest Network, you can plug the printer’s USB-cable into that wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule.

You could also use a printer server, if it isn’t possible to connect the printer’s USB-cable into the wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule. You can find relatively cheap print servers on Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Regarding the setup of your networks, you will probably be best off doing it like this :

  • set your internet modem in router mode (if you would set it in bridge mode, you wouldn’t be able to connect two separate networks behind it)
  • connect both routers (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to the internet modem
  • setup one router¬†(or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the private network and private WiFi network
  • setup the other router¬†(or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the Guest Network and Guest WiFi Network
  • make sure that the IP-ranges issued by both routers are completely different (to prevent easy connection from the Guest Network to your private network (and the other way around)
  • if any of your routers give a “Double NAT” error, just ignore it

That’s it !

the only downsite is that having such a complex network setup with multiple routers will have negative influence on your (internet) connection speed ; this difference in speed will probably not be very big if you have few devices connected, but if you have a lot of devices connected that also use a lot of bandwidth (like video streaming) you will probably have slower internet speed than you used to…

enjoy !

fixed : MacBook’s external monitor screen stays black

Question :

In my office, I am using an external monitor as my main screen for my MacBook Pro.¬†Today, the screen didn’t respond when I connected my MacBook however :¬†the screen stays black and nothing appears on-screen.¬†So I opened up my MacBook and used the built-in screen to figure out what’s wrong, but so far I haven’t¬†found any indication in the Displays¬†Preference Panel that my MacBook even detects the second screen…

What can I do ?

 

Answer :

In such situations you should always do this first :

Remedy #1 :

  • make sure your monitor is switched ON
  • then hit the SPACE-bar on your external keyboard several times (maybe once, usually about 5 to 10 times…)
  • the monitor should now appear and show the inlog panel to unlock your screensaver
  • then login

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #2

NOTE : if you have a Benq monitor (especially the BL2420TP), try this first :

fixed : Benq monitor stays black when MacBook is switched on

Remedy #2 :

  • unplug all cables between the monitor and your Mac ( DisplayPort / Thunderbolt / HDMI / DVI / VGA ¬†and also USB, UTP, FireWire and PowerAdapter )
  • shut down your monitor
  • shut down¬†your MacBook
  • reconnect all cables and double-check if they’re properly connected on both the Mac and the monitor
  • switch on your MacBook
  • switch on your monitor

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #3

Remedy #3 :

  • on your MacBook, open Apple [main menu bar top-left] –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is no “Gather Windows” button, press the ALT-key on your keyboard and a button marked “Detect Displays” appears ; click on it when it appears

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #4

Remedy #4 :

  • on your MacBook, open Apple [main menu bar top-left] –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is a¬†“Gather Windows” button, click on it
  • then you will see 2 Display Preference windows on your MacBook screen
  • select the Display Preference window that has 3 tabs on it marked “Display”, “Arrangement” and “Color” (not the window¬†that has “Display” and “Color” only)
  • first, press the ALT-key on your keyboard and a button marked “Detect Displays” appears¬†where the “Gather Windows”-button used to be ; click on it when it appears
  • if your monitor switches on, you’re good, if not…
  • click on the “Arrangement”-tab and in the next window put a checkmark at “Mirror Display”
  • if your monitor switches on now, uncheck the “Mirror Display” option again and close your MacBook… you should be good now…

if this didn’t work, try Remedy #5

Remedy #5 :

  • unplug all cables between the monitor and your Mac ( DisplayPort / Thunderbolt / HDMI / DVI / VGA ¬†and also USB, UTP, FireWire and PowerAdapter )
  • shut down your monitor
  • shut down¬†your MacBook
  • reconnect your Mac to your monitor using a different type of cable then you normally would choose (e.g. if you normally use a DisplayPort/Thunderbolt-cable, use an HDMI or DVI cable now)
  • switch on your MacBook
  • switch on your monitor
  • if your monitor wakes from sleep now, open Apple –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is¬†a¬†“Gather Windows” button, click on it
  • then you will see 2 Display Preference windows on your MacBook screen
  • now, remove the monitor-cable that you have just used to connect your MacBook to your monitor
  • then, reconnect your MacBook to your monitor using all cables you normally use to connect the two
  • if your monitor now wakes from sleep, you’re good
  • if it doesn’t, restart your monitor
  • it that doesn’t help, restart your Mac

normally your issue should be resolved by now…

if still the monitor stays showing a back screen, I’m sorry to inform you that your screen probably has a hardware problem… if so, get an authorized Mac-repair-centre to fix it, get the Apple Store support-crew to fix this…

that’s it !

enjoy ūüėČ

fixed : setting up WiFi-printing for the Samsung CLP-365W

Question :

I just bought a Samsung CLP-365W color laser printer and I am very happy with it. Setting it up for use over USB and Ethernet was easy. But since it is a wireless network-printer, I would like to use is as such. Even with the enclosed “Wireless Network Quick Guide” I have still no success in setting it up after several tries…

Do you have any idea how to set the CLP-365W up for wireless networking from my Mac ?

Answer :

Yes !

…and you are completely right : all instructions provided by Samsung are incomplete…

…and the setup-process is not always smooth and hassle-free…

So… here’s how to do it :

1- download the Wireless Setting app for OSX from the Samsung website :

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/CLP-365W/XAC#

on that page, go to “Manuals & Downloads”, then to “Software” and click on the “ZIP”-button of the Easy Wireless Setup (Software) for Mac OS

2- install the Wireless Setting app on your Mac (it’s a drag&drop-installation)

Note : since the app’s name is just very generically “Wireless Setting” and doesn’t include any reference to Samsung, I suggest you put it in a folder labelled “Samsung” (you might already have one, if so put it there) inside the Applications folder

3- now, first make sure there is no connection from your Mac to the CLP-365W, so pull out the ethernet-cable to disconnect from your network, choose “Turn Wi-Fi Off” from the AirPort-menu in the top Menu-bar of your Desktop (the pie-shaped radiation icon) and pull out the USB-cable that might connect your CLP-365W to your Mac

4- open the Wireless Setting app

5- click “Next >” in the window that opens

6- turn the printer on, and when the printer is ready, click “Next >”

7- select “Using a USB cable”, and click “Next >”

Note : even though there is an option named “Using a direct wireless connection”, that will NOT work‚Ķ too bad‚Ķ neither manually connecting to the “Portthru” WiFi-network, nor pressing the “WPS” button on the CLP-365W will help‚Ķ

8- connect the CLP-365W to your Mac using a USB-printer cable

9- now turn on AirPort/WiFi on your Mac, and make sure your Mac is connected to the AirPort/WiFi-network that you want the CLP-365W to connect to also (to do so go to the pie-shaped icon in the top-Menu bar of your desktop)

10- then click “Next >” and you will first see a screen indicating the search for a connection between the Mac and the CLP-365W, and after that a new screen called “Wireless Network Search”

Note : if this doesn’t work, disconnect all cables from the CLP-365W, and also take out the power cable for at least 30 seconds, then put the power cable back in and redo from step 3

11- the name of your wireless AirPort/WiFi-network will now appear in the list of SSIDs, select it and click “Next >” (if it is not listed, try clicking “Refresh”, if that doesn’t help, redo from step 3)

12- in the next screen type your AiPort/WiFi-password and click “Next >” (if you get an error, just retry)

13- in the next screen you can enable Wi-Fi Direct, which enables your iPhones, iPads and Android-devices to easily connect to your CLP-365W

the iOS app needed can be downloaded from the iTunes App Store :

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/samsung-mobile-print/id429611283?mt=8

14- in the next screen click “Add printer” and the “Print & Scan” System Preferences panel will open ; in the “Add” window, select the one with the “Bonjour” indication (so NOT the “USB” one), adjust the “Name:” if you like and click “Add”

15- click “OK” in the pulldown window regarding additional settings, and your CLP-365W will now appear in your list of printers

Note : if you get an error that your System does not have the drivers needed installed, first do a “Repair Disk Permissions” of your OSX-partition in the “Disk Utilities”-app and make sure you have all updates of OSX installed and just try again… only if that doesn’t work you’ll need to reinstall the printer-driver

16- do not forget to close the Wireless Settings app by clicking “Finish” and disconnect your

‚Ķand that’s it !

you can now use your CLP-365W from your Mac wirelessly

Enjoy !

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