fixed : Philips HUE lights not responding after upgrading to HUE Bridge

Question :

Previously we had our Philips HUE lights setup suing Bluetooth, but now we have bought ourselves a Philips HUE Bridge since we want to be able to set some wake-up, sleep and out-of-home routines on our HUE lights. But after installing the HUE Bridge, our Google Nest Hub can no longer connect to our HUE lights.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

Since you installed your Philips HUE lights over Bluetooth before you installed your Philips HUE Hub, you have switched from Bluetooth HUE connection to WiFi HUE connection, but your Google Nest Hub doesn’t know about this switch yet…

To fix this, do this :

  • first : to avoid confusion, it’s advisory to delete the HUE lights that you had set up over Bluetooth first from the Google Home.app
  • then, in the Google Home.app, click ‘Settings’
  • in ‘Settings’ screen, scroll down and click on ‘Add…’
  • in ‘Add and manage’ screen, click on ‘Setup device’
  • in ‘Setup’ screen, click on ‘have something already set up?’
  • in ‘Add devices’ screen, select ‘Philips HUE’ (if you don’t see it right away, use the search option top right)
  • you will be redirected to the MeetHUE.com login-page
  • login to your PhilipsHUE-account (you probably don’t have one yet, so either create a new one or sign in using your Google account)
  • follow the on-screen directions to link your HUE Bridge to your account ; press the big button on the HUE Bridge when prompted
  • now your HUE Bridge will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub
  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

If you want to be able to control the HUE lights in Zones different from the Rooms, use the PhilipsHUE.app to setup new Zones first :

  • open PhilipsHUE.app
  • if the app doesn’t open in the Settings screen automatically, click on Settings (bottom right)
  • in ‘Rooms & Zones’ screen, click on the ‘Create new’ button (top left) 
  • in ‘Create new – Room’ screen click on the ‘Create Zone’ button and follow the onscreen directions
  • now the Zone will be listed in Google Home.app also
  • when the Zone is listed on the ‘Home’ screen in Google Home.app, click on the name of the room
  • in [Room/Zone name] screen, click on the gear/sprocket icon (top right)
  • in ‘Room’ screen, click ‘Choose devices’
  • in ‘Choose devices’ screen, check all HUE lamps you want to include in this Zone (note that Google Home names Zones as Rooms) and click the ‘Next’ button

Now your Philips HUE lights will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub both individually and as Rooms/Zones (Google Home names both as Rooms) :

  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

Note : you can also select routines for the HUE lights from the Nest Hub if you have set them up in Google Home.app (like daily routines to use when you’re out of home)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : control child’s bedroom HUE lamp from 2 devices

Question :

We recently got several light blubs replaced by Philips HUE lamps in our home. We have setup everything to be used from one device, but now my son wants to adjust his bedroom lamp himself from his own iPhone.

How do we set that up ?

 

Answer :

There are various ways of setting this up, and most of them are straight forward. Here are a few of the simplest ones :

If you do NOT have a Philips HUE Bridge :

If you do have a Philips HUE Bridge setup already :

The setup process is rather simple, especially if you have done this befor (like you mentioned) : just follow the onscreen directions.

Note : you can also control Philips HUE lamps from your AppleWatch (if you have one) using the watchOS version of the PhilipsHUE.app that is automatically installed if your AppleWatch is connected to your iPhone.

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : AppleTV keeps getting new IP address continuously

Question :

I am using the IP Scanner (and LANscan) software to check my network performance whenever I encounter network problems. I have found that my AppleTV keeps getting multiple IP addresses from my router using DHCP…

What is going on and how can I fix this ?

 

Answer :

The most probable cause of your problem is that you are connection over WiFi and the AppleTV is positioned somewhere where WiFi-reception isn’t optimal, and where multiple base stations are giving an equally strong WiFi-signal, which is causing the AppleTV to constantly switch from a connection to the one WiFi-base station to the other and back again.

There is a slight chance that you have this problem when connecting over Ethernet LAN-cable also… in that case you might have some interference or data-loss on the cable which usually isn’t problematic, but still is sub-optimal…

The best and easiest way to fix this is to give the AppleTV a fixed IP-address.

To do so, do this (in tvOS 7.4 – for other versions of tvOS the actual screens may differ) :

  • unplug the AC-power cable from your AppleTV
  • restart your router (or unplug it from power for 30 seconds)
  • plug the AC-power cable back into your AppleTV
  • turn on your TV (the one that’s connected to your AppleTV)
  • turn on your AppleTV
  • goto Settings (the app that has a Sprocket/Gear-icon)
  • in the Settings-window, click on General
  • in the General-window, click on Network
  • in the Network-window, click on WiFi (or Ethernet if you use it)
  • in the WiFi-window (or Ethernet-window), click on Configure IP
  • in the ConfigureIP-window, make a photo of all settings or write them down (because this exact info is what you are going to enter manually), then click on Manual
  • in the IP-configuration window, roll the dials until the IP is set, then click OK
  • in the Subnetmask-configuration window, roll the dials until the Subnetmask is set, then click OK
  • in the Router-configuration window, roll the dials until the Router IP is set, then click OK
  • in the DNS-configuration window, roll the dials until the DNS is set (or use 008.008.008.008), then click OK
  • then wait for the setting so be accepted while the wheel spins
  • then exit, exit, exit until you’re back on the Home screen

That’s it !

Note : if you want to be completely sure that your AppleTV has accepted all settings, you can unplug and replug your AppleTV from power, but that is not as important as it used to be in older versions of tvOS – and you need to check afterwards in Settings to be completely sure

enjoy 😉

fixed : play retro Cuphead game on Mac

Question :

My children have played the ‘ultra-retro Disney’ game Cuphead on their friend’s PC and they love it. So now they want to play it on their own Mac also. Unfortunately there is no Mac version available yet.

What can I do ?

 

Answer :

There are various ways to solve your problem, and they all boil down to trickery to play the Windows game on your Mac : installing Windows (like Bootcamp, Parallels, VM Ware or VirtualBox) or some form of WINE (= the ‘Windows without Windows’-virtualization called “Wine Is Not an Emulator”, like WineBottler, WinOnX or PlayOnMac) or NVIDIA GeForce NOW cloud gaming.

It turns out that the simplest way to get the Cuphead game running on your Mac is this :

  • get (buy) the Cuphead game (Windows 10 version) in the Microsoft Store here
  • find the Cuphead.zip or Cuphead.rar in your downloads and unzip/unrar it
  • make sure you have both the setup_cuphead_xxxxxx.bin and the setup_cuphead_xxxxxx.exe files
  • then get the PlayOnMac virtualization-app here
  • download and install the PlayOnMac-app
  • now, right-click on the setup_cuphead_xxxxxx.exe file
  • in the pulldown-menu, choose “Open with PlayOnMac”
  • now the installation (in an app-like container) will start
  • this will take some time, just ignore any error messages
  • when PlayOnMac asks for the location of the setup_cuphead_xxxxxx.bin file, locate it on your Mac and proceed the installation
  • again, ignore any error messages
  • when PlayOnMac asks you to create a Cuphead game-alias on your Desktop, do it
  • when the Cuphead game-alias appears on your Desktop, it might have an icon of a non-runnable application ; ignore that
  • drag&drop the Cuphead game-alias on the Dock (in most cases, the icon will now change to the yellow-squared Cuphead icon)
  • then exit PayOnMac
  • finally open the Cuphead game-alias in the Dock and the Cuphead game will run

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

Note : depending on your screen-settings, there may be weird looking edges on the top and/or bottom part of the screen while playing the Cuphead game, this is one of the little downsides of using PlayOnMac…

fixed : set IMAP eMail for Hotmail.com, Live.com and Outlook.com in MacOSX Mail.app

Question :

I’ve always though it was extremely annoying that Microsoft only allowed POP eMail for Hotmail.com for MacOSX, but I kept my Hotmail-account alive for al these years since I actually liked it, even after I switched to Mac…

Recently I heard that Microsoft is finally allowing IMAP access to Hotmail.com eMail, but I can’t figure out how to set it up on my Mac…

Can you please help ?

Answer :

Yes, you’re correct : IMAP eMail has finally come to Hotmail.com, Live.com and Outlook.com eMail.

Setting it up in MacOSX is not as straight forward as one might have hoped however…

The tricky part is that MacOSX will automatically set-up a POP-account if you are setting up a new account in Mail.app using a Hotmail.com, Live.com or Outlook.com eMail-address.

note : instructions for setting-up Hotmail/Live/Outlook-eMail on iPhone/iPad can be found here.

That being said…

If you follow these steps, you will be able to succeed anyway :

( if you are on OSX 10.9 Mavericks, read this first )

1- in OSX Mail.app, go to Preferences, then to Accounts and (if you have one) select your current POP-setup for Hotmail/Live/Outlook from the list, then go to the Account Information tab, and there un-check the “Enable this account” option

2- then use the Plus-button (bottom left) to add a new account

3- in the pulldown-window “Add Account” that appears, fill in your Full Name, type a fake eMail address ( e.g. nobody@blabla.com ) and leave the Password blank, then click on Create

4- in the next window, set the Account Type to “Exchange IMAP” (only if you don’t have that option choose “IMAP”) and use the following info, depending on what eMail-address you have :

for Hotmail.com-eMail, use :

Description : Hotmail IMAP ( or if you perfer your eMail-address, make sure to add “IMAP” or something like that to it, else it will conflict with your previously set-up Hotmail POP )

Incoming Mail Server : imap-mail.outlook.com [ will automatically select Port 993 ]

User Name : username@hotmail.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Hotmail-password ]

Outlook Web Access Server : m.hotmail.com

for Live.com-eMail, use :

Description : Live.com IMAP ( or if you perfer your eMail-address, make sure to add “IMAP” or something like that to it, else it will conflict with your previously set-up Live.com POP )

Incoming Mail Server : imap-mail.outlook.com [ will automatically select Port 993 ]

User Name : username@live.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Live.com-password ]

Outlook Web Access Server : m.live.com

for Outlook.com-eMail, use :

Description : Outlook IMAP ( or if you perfer your eMail-address, make sure to add “IMAP” or something like that to it, else it will conflict with your previously set-up Live.com POP )

Incoming Mail Server : imap-mail.outlook.com [ will automatically select Port 993 ]

User Name : username@outlook.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Outlook.com-password ]

Outlook Web Access Server : m.outlook.com

5- then click “Continue”, and if you get an error-message, just click “Continue” again

6- in the next window put a check-mark in front of “Use SSL”, set Authentication to “Password” and click “Continue” again

7- in the next window, use these settings :

for Hotmail.com-eMail, use :

Description : Hotmail SMTP ( or anything you like )

Outgoing Mail Server : smtp.live.com [ will automatically select Port 25 or Port 465 ]

you can check “Use only this server”, but it’s not obligatory

do check “Use Authentication”

User Name : username@hotmail.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Hotmail.com-password ]

for Live.com-eMail, use :

Description : Live.com SMTP ( or anything you like )

Outgoing Mail Server : smtp.live.com [ will automatically select Port 25 or Port 465 ]

you can check “Use only this server”, but it’s not obligatory

do check “Use Authentication”

User Name : username@live.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Live.com-password ]

for Outlook.com-eMail, use :

Description : Outlook SMTP ( or anything you like )

Outgoing Mail Server : smtp-mail.outlook.com [ will automatically select Port 587 ]

you can check “Use only this server, but it’s not obligatory

do check “Use Authentication”

User Name : username@outlook.com [ replace “username” by your own username ]

Password : ••••• [ your Outlook.com-password ]

8- then click “Continue” and if you get an error message, just click “Continue” again

9- in the next window, put a check-mark at “Use SSL”, select Authentication “Password” ( or “External (TSL client Certificate)” if you happen to have that ), and click “Continue”

10- in the next window, put a check-mark at “Take account online” and click on “Create”

11- then, back in Mail.app’s Prefecences, under Accounts, select your newly created eMail-account and click on the “Account Information”-tab and re-type your correct eMail-address in “Email Address:” (replacing the nobody@blabla.com you had originally entered) and check if all settings are as they need to be according to the above

12- then exit the Mail.app Prefecences (click the red button upper left) and click “Save” when the “Save changes” pulldown window appears

13- now, back in Mail.app itself (if you do not see the normal Mail window, go to File –> New Viewer Window), you will see the new Hotmail/Live/Outlook account has appeared, and it is looking for your old & new eMails on the Hotmail/Live/Outlook-mail servers

…most people will have lots of old eMails to import, so this might take some time (don’t be surprised if this takes 15, 20 or maybe even 30 minutes…)

14- if the import of the old & new eMails from the Hotmail/Live/Outlook-mail servers is complete, they will appear in the Inbox window and you’re done…

Congratulations !

…if you do not see your old & new eMails appearing, but you do see an “Unread eMails”-number next to the name of the Hotmail/Live/Outlook-inbox in the listing on the left, you have run into a bug in Mail.app that was only recently solved in OSX 10.8.5

to manually solve this problem, quit Mail.app, open Disk Utility (from the Applications –> Utilities folder), run “Repair Disk Permissions” on your Hard Drive’s main partition and when that’s finished, re-open Mail.app and all should be solved

Enjoy !

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fixed : setup LogiLink WL0083 as WiFi-to-ethernet-bridge

Question :

I have a Philips BluRay player which has the option to connect to the internet (for things like YouTube and Picasa), which I think would be interesting to every once in a while.  The BluRay player has two options to connect to the internet, either using an ethernet network cable or using the special Philips WiFi-to-USB-dongle that is very expensive.

Problem is the BluRay player is next to my TV (and my AppleTV), but I do not have an ethernet cable connection there, only WiFi… (and my AppleTV cannot share it’s WiFi connection through it’s ethernet port…)

My first thought was to use an Apple AirPort Express and connect it to the BluRay player’s ethernet-port to use it as a WiFi/AirPort-client… but since I do not have an AirPort Express (yet), buying one would even be a more expensive option than buying the official Philips WiFi-to-USB-dongle…

On the other hand… I do happen to have a mini/portable WiFi-router (a LogiLink WL0083) lying around, which should be able to act as a WiFi-to-ethernet-bridge also…

But… even after several tries, I did not succeed in setting the WL0083 up properly…

Any idea how that should be done ?

Answer :

Yes !

Actually it’s rather simple, you just have to setup the LogiLink WL0083 as “Client+AP” and use the setup-wizard of the web-interface, but there are 3 things to know :

-1- the default IP-address of the LogiLink WL0083 is 192.168.2.1 so you need to be sure that the network you want it to connect to does not use the 192.168.2.0 to 192.168.2.255 range of IP-adresses (so you might have to reconfigure your ‘entire’ network to use the 192.168.3.1 to 192.168.3.255 range…)

-2- to make it a “Client only” instead of a “Client+AP”, you should set SSID broadcast to “Hidden” and leave the additional (extender) SSID in default “Logilink” and “Disabled”

-3- and… when finishing up, do not forget to change the IP-address of your Mac’s WiFi and ethernet connection back to “DHCP”

in a step-by-step guide, that would be :

– make sure your WiFi network is not using the 192.168.2.0 to 192.168.2.255 range of IP-adresses (if it does, reconfigure your network router to use another range of IP addresses, and reconfigure all clients in your network that use Static IP addresses)

– then unplug your ethernet cable from your regular network

– disconnect from your regular WiFi/AirPort-network

– connect the LogiLink WL0083 to your Mac using an ethernet cable, and connect it’s USB-cable to a powered USB-port (e.g. on your Mac)

– then press the small “WPS/Reset”-button on the WL0083 for about 5 seconds (to reset it)

– then, on your Mac, go to Apple Menu (Apple icon top-left on the screen) –> System Preferences –> Network –> Ethernet and change it to “Using DHCP with manual address” and type the IP-address 192.168.2.100 in the input field

– then open Safari and type 192.168.2.1 into the URL-field ; for User Name and Password type “admin” (both the same)

– now the LogiLink web interface should open

– click on the “Client+AP” tab, then “Setup Wizard” on the left, followed by “Next” on the left

– on the next screen, start by clicking on the “Scan”-button, and wait for the list of SSIDs of local WiFi/AirPort-networks to appear

– then select your WiFi/AirPort-network from the list

– everything will then be automatically filled out, apart from “Pass Phrase:”, there you should type your WiFi/AirPort-password

– then click “Next”

– in the “Wireless Basic Settings”-screen that opens, set “Network Mode” to “11b/g/n mixed mode”, leave “SSID” as it is (probably “Logilink”), set “Broadcast SSID” to “Disable” and leave the rest as it is automatically set

– then click “Next”

– in the “Wireless Security Settings”-screen that opens, set “Security Mode” to “Disable”, and leave the rest as it is

– then click “Next”

– in the next screen click “Apply” and the WL0083 will reboot

– then, on your Mac, make sure that you are NOT connected to a WiFi/AirPort-network

– then go to Apple Menu –> System Preferences –> Network –> Ethernet and change it to “Using DHCP”

– then, in Safari, manually type the URL of any existing website that you do not often visit (e.g. the website of the city you live in) and see if it loads, to check if the WL0083 is properly configured as a WiFi-client on your network

– then disconnect the LogiLink WL0083’s ethernet and USB cable from your Mac

– so, go over to your BluRay player, and connect the LogiLink WL0083’s ethernet cable to it and connect the USB cable to a powered USB-port (or USB-poweradapter)

– now try and see if your BluRay player can use it’s internet services

– if your BluRay player needs any additional configuration, just set it to “ethernet” and “DHCP”

Enjoy !

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Note #1 : the LogiLink WL0083 supports WiFi-N only at 150Mbps speed, even though the normal maximum speed of WiFi-N is 300Mbps (just like Apple’s implementation of WiFi-N in AirPort), most of the time you will probably not notice any decline in quality, but you might if you’re a heavy user…

Note #2 : if you want to adjust something small on your LogiLink WL0083 after you’ve configured it, you just need to temporarily switch your ethernet-connection from “Using DHCP” to “Using DHCP with manual address” and 192.168.2.100 as the actual IP-address ; then you can login to the LogiLink web-interface at the 192.168.2.1 URL (and do not forget to change back to “Using DHCP” afterwards)