fixed : CarPlay option not available on iPhone

Question :

My car doesn’t have buit-in navigation, but the onboard system supports Apple CarPlay. I have connected my iPhone to my car both through USB and Bluetooth, but my car only connects to my iPhone for Contacts and telephone… I can’t get access to my iPhone apps like navigation…

I have looked up info on CarPlay online, and it is said everywhere that there should be a CarPlay option in the General.app listed in the same chapter containing AirDrop, AirPlay&Handoff and Picture-in-Picture… immediately below those Picture-in-Picture… but there is none…

My iPhone is just over a year old and I am running the latest version of iOS, so that shouldn’t be a problem, especially since my friend’s iPhone 6S immediately connects to my car’s CarPlay when he plugs in the lightning-to-USB-cable…

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

If you have Siri turned off, the CarPlay option won’t show.

So, to fix your problem, do this :

  • on your iPhone, goto the Settings.app > Siri & Search (in the same chapter as General, Control Center and Display&Brightness, just below Wallpaper) > switch ON “Allow Siri When Locked” and preferably also “Listen for Hey Siri” and/or “Press Side Button for Siri”
  • then turn Bluetooth OFF and back ON on your iPhone
  • then turn WiFi OFF and back ON on your iPhone
  • then goto the Settings.app > General > CarPlay
  • if CarPlay isn’t listed, just wait a few minutes or restart your iPhone
    • press&hold the ON/OFF-button and the VolumeUP-button simultaneously until the “Slide to power off” slider appears
    • then slide the PowerOFF-slider so the screen goes black
    • then press&hold the ON/OFF-button until the Apple logo appears and your iPhone restarts and says you SIM must be unlocked
    • then touch the screen and typ your screen unlock code (6 digits) in the first (black) screen
    • then typ your SIM unlock code (4 digits) in the second (white) screen
  • then, again, goto the Settings.app > General and check if CarPlay is now listed
    • if CarPlay still isn’t listed, repeat the entire process
  • now reconnect your iPhone to your car using the Lighting-to-USB-cable and your car’s display will now be able to show your iPhone’s apps also
    • if the app you want to use isn’t listed, goto Settings.app > General > CarPlay and make sure that you add all apps that you would like to use
    • if no apps are available on your car’s display, use another Lightning-to-USB-cable

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

 

 

fixed (kind of) : Medisana PM100 BT not connecting to VitaDock+.app

Question :

I just bought the Medisana PM100 Connect (PM100 with Bluetooth) oximeter to measure my blood oxygen saturation level (like the new AppleWatch), which can help to find if I am having a pneumonia (good to know in these COVID-19 Corona times).

I especially bought the Bluetooth version to sync all measurements to my iPhone using the VitaDock+.app (and ultimately to the Apple Health.app). But when I open the VitaDock+.app and click on Devices (top-right), then on the next page scroll down to Health-PulseOximeter, then on the next page click Setup Device and switch the PM100 on, the Bluetooth scanner keeps scanning and finally reports not having found any new devices…

Multiple tries didn’t help… restarting the VitaDock+.app didn’t help… restarting my iPhone didn’t help… switching Bluetooth off and back on didn’t help…

Nothing seems to solve this, what can I do to fix this ?

 

Answer :

Mediasana is aware of the problem and it will be fixed in the next version of VitaDock+.app, which is said to currently being reviewed by Apple …so if you have version 2.7.8 you will just have to wait for the update… there’s nothing you can do additionally…

Note you can see which version of the VitaDock+.app you have by opening the app on your iPhone and clicking on the ‘circle with 3 lines’ icon top-right, at the bottom of the popup window the version number is listed.

Note : you can get the Medisana PM100 BT Oximeter from Amazon DE

 

tips : which affordable display is best for working from home with a MacBook Pro ?

Question :

I need to work from home and I am looking for an affordable display to hook up to my MacBook Pro, to make my work a little easier.

Do you have any recommendations ?

 

Answer :

When buying an external display and having only a few hundred euros of budget*, look at these specs mainly, and decide which order of priority they have in your specific case :

*= this is for people who do not have a budget of €500 or more

  1. HDMI or DisplayPort :
    • what ports does your MacBook (Air/Pro) have ?
      • if it has USB-C (or Thunderbolt 3) only, get a display with HDMI-input and get a USB-C-to-HDMI-cable that can handle 4K@60Hz
      • if it has a miniDisplayPort (or Thunderbolt 1 or 2) and regular sized USB-ports, get a display with DisplayPort(v1.2)-input and a get a miniDisplayPort-to-DisplayPort-cable
  2. number of pixels (is preferrred over screen size) :
    • in any home office or home schooling situation, you will not be more than 60cm away from your screen (note : the front of the screen will be about 10cm in front of the wall, because of the display stand) : so there’s no need for a huge screen :
      • when you are about 40cm from your screen, go for a 21″ to 24″ display
      • when you are about 50cm from your screen, go for a 24″ to 27″ display
    • any display with 1920×1080 (1K/HD) pixels or more will do just fine
      • 1920×1080 looks great on 21″ or 24″ 16:9 screen
      • but 1920×1080 looks fuzzy on a 27″ 16:9 screen
      • 2560×1080 looks okay on a 27″ wide screen
      • but 2560×1440 looks great on a 24″ 16:9 screen
  3. IPS display :
    • for home office work or home schooling, get an IPS display – it has better color representation and is easier on the eyes when using it for extended periods (hours and hours of continuous working)
    • for gaming, you might consider getting some other type of display, like TN, that enables you to get higher refresh rates for a tighter budget, but you shouldn’t use those for anything other than gaming
  4. refresh rate :
    • for home office work, a refresh rate of 5ms @60Hz is perfect
    • for gaming, get as close to 1ms @144Hz as your budget can afford (3ms @100Hz or 2ms @75Hz is okay for budget gaming)
  5. adjustable height (and orientation) :
    • because of ergonomics, it is important that you adjust the height to make sure top of the display is at the same height as your eyes when sitting straight up
    • because light reflection on the screen will be extremely annoying, make sure the display has the option to slightly tilt
    • only if you are working on a lot of text documents you will benefit from the option to twist the display’s orientation from landscape (regular) to portrait mode
  6. integrated multi-port USB3-hub :
    • this is an essential ! make sure that there is a USB-multipier in the display and that it’s USB3.0 or USB3.1 based
      • since there aren’t many USB-ports on your MacBook (Air/Pro), you will need extra USB-ports (especially if you have a USB-C MacBook (Air/Pro), since you will need one USB-C port to connect the screen)
      • a USB-port on your screen will enable you to connect a USB3-to-GigabitEthernet-adapter which will outperform your WiFi connection, and your MacBook (Air/Pro) will instantaneously be connected to fast wired internet the moment you connect it to your display
    • 2 extra USB-ports on the Display is the bear minimum : you should prefer 4 or more USB-ports, so you can connect these if you need to :
      • a USB-mouse
      • a USB-keyboard
      • a USB-to-Ethernet adapter (preferably USB3-to-GigabitEthernet)
      • a USB-printer
      • a USB-scanner
      • a USB-flashcardreader (for photo camera memory cards)
      • a USB-to-TV adapter (e.g. an EyeTV stick, to watch picture-in-picture TV)
      • connect or charge your iPhone or iPad
      • an external harddrive or backup drive
    • for a keyboard or mouse (or even a wired joystick/joypad) you don’t really need a USB3.0 or USB3.1 connection, but for data transfer it will save you a lot of time
  7. price :
    • do not go for ‘lowest budget’ if you need to use the display for working from home or home schooling, find a display for €200 to €250 : even though you cheaper displays are available, do not buy any display that was under €200 when released : most of the time, you will be better of getting a slightly older (up to 3 years) display model that used to cost €300 or more
      • make sure you also take into account the extra headphone, sound system, ethernet-adapter, mouse, keyboard and alike when deciding on your budget for the display
  8. integrated webcam :
    • if you need to do video-conferencing, make sure you get a webcam with your display – an integrated webcam will turn out to be very convenient (an integrated webcam cannot compete with a high-quality webcam, but if you use an external webcam, make sure to get a display with a USB3-hub with enough ports in your display)
      • added bonus of most integrated webcams is that de webcam is either pop-up or slide-to-open, so you can easily prevent being ‘accidentally’ exposed to webcam viewers
      • make sure the integrated webcam is 1.2 megapixel (1.2MP) or more : the FaceTime HD webcam that is built into a MacBook is at least 1.2MP (in an iPhone X the selfie camera is even 7MP)
  9. integrated microphone :
    • if you have the need for a webcam on your display, make sure you also have a microphone – an integrated microphone will turn out to be very convenient (an integrated microphone cannot compete with a headphone with integrated microphone, a gaming headphone or a separate directional of voice microphone)
  10. integrated speakers :
    • most displays do not have integrated speakers, but having the option to watch home schooling lessons or YouTube-videos without a headphone are very convenient, even though audio quality of most integrated speakers is okay but not impressive (if you do not already have an audio systemconnected to your MacBook, these integrated speakers might even turn out to be essential)
  11. bezel thickness :
    • the bezel (the edge around the actual screen) is really important if you want to set multiple displays side-by-side, but most of the time it is only a matter of taste in design : about 15mm is okay, especially if the display will be placed in front of a distracting environment (like a window, fancy wallpaper or a hallway)

Note : make sure you also think about these :

  • you need to use an external keyboard and mouse (or trackpad) :
    • any mouse or keyboard that suits you will do, so if you have an old mouse and even keyboard around, use those
      • for work, USB, Bluetooth and RF (wireless connection from a dedicated USB-to-wireless-plug) will all do
      • for gaming, only USB is advisory as any wireless connection might get laggy during intensive use
    • if you need to buy a new keyboard, think about these :
      • get a ‘Designed for Mac’ keyboard with the Mac key-layout, so with a COMMAND/CMD-key (and not a WINDOWS-key : only if you can typ blindly without any restrictions, you can get a Windows-layout keyboard and remap the keys in macOS)
      • get a keyboard that suits your main language : usually that is a QWERTY-layout, but for French it is AZERTY-layout and for German it is QWERTZ-layout (this will also help when you need to use accents in texts)
      • if you need to typ a lot, get a keyboard mechanical keys and spacing between all keys
      • if you need to input a lot of numbers (if you’re in accounting or working with Excell sheets) get a full-size keyboard with an integrated numeric pad (on the right of the keyboard)
      • a keyboard with an integrated trackpad can be beneficial for some, but make sure you get one with a Mac key-layout
      • an ergonomic keyboard can be really beneficial, but there are very few ergonomic keyboards with a Mac key-layout
    • if you need to buy a new mouse, think about these :
      • a mouse with a right and left button and a scroll-option will do for most purposes
        • most people have no need for a fancy gaming mouse with more than these 3 functions
      • consider using a trackball or ergonomic mouse
      • a Bluetooth or RF-wireless mouse does have downsides :
        • it will need to be charged (Apple’s Magic Mouse 2 is problematic in this respect…)
        • it easily gets lost
        • when the battery is down, you will need to open your MacBook and use the built-in trackpad until the mouse is recharged
    • if you need to buy both a new mouse and a new keyboard, have a look at the mouse & keyboard combo offerings by renowned brands like Logitech,
  • make sure your MacBook (Air/Pro) has it’s power adapter plugged in when using an external display, else you cannot use your display with the MacBook’s lid closed and your MacBook will quickly run out of battery
  • if your MacBook has USB-C (Thunderbolt 3) ports, and your Display doesn’t have a built-in multi-port USB3-hub, consider getting a USB-C Docking-hub
  • if your MacBook has regular USB ports, and your Display doesn’t have a built-in multi-port USB3-hub, consider getting yourself an additional USB3-hub
  • if your mouse is on a very reflective surface (like a glass table) or a wobbly surface (like a rustic wooden table), your mouse will not work reliably, so it is advisory to use a mouse mat (or a plastic placemat or even a sturdy-covered magazine)
  • to minimize the clutter of cables, you can use a cable hose to keep your cables together (budget option : use tie-ribs, or even ‘the pieces of plastic covered metal wire’ that you get with nearly every cable or electronic device you buy, to tie your cables together)

 

Some suggestions (no single display is optimal on all requirements) :

for office & graphic work : BenQ BL2420PT display : 23.8″ / 16:9 / 2560×1440 (2K/QHD) / 5ms / 60Hz / IPS / HDMI v1.4 & DisplayPort v1.2 / adjustable height & orientation / 2x USB2.0 out / no webcam / 2x 1W stereo-speakers / audio minijack out / 15mm bezel

for videoconferencing & office work : Philips B-line 241B7QPJKEB / 23.8″ / 16:9 / 1920×1080 (1K/HD) / 5ms / 60Hz / IPS / HDMI v1.4 & DisplayPort v1.2 / adjustable height & orientation / 3x USB3.0 out / pop-up 2MP webcam / 2W stereo-speakers / audio minijack out / 2mm bezel

for gaming : BenQ Zowie XL2411P display : 24″ / 16:9 / 1920×1080 (1K/HD) / 1ms / 144Hz / TN / HDMI & DisplayPort v1.2 / adjustable height & orientation / no USB out / no webcam / no speakers / audio minijack out / 15mm bezel

miniDisplayPort cable : Rankie miniDP-to-DP-cable : miniDisplayPort in / DisplayPort out / up to 4K/UltraHD (3840×2160)

USB-C to HDMI cable : Uni USB-C HDMI cable : USB-C in / HDMI out / up to 4K/UltraHD @60Hz (3840×2160)

USB3.0-to-Ethernet-adapter : TP-Link UE300 Gigabit LAN adapter : USB3.0 / RJ45 LAN / Gigabit (10/100/1000Mbps) Ethernet

USB-C-to-GigabitEthernet-adapter : AmazonBasics USB-C Gigabit LAN adapter : USB-C / RJ45 LAN / Gigabit (10/100/1000Mbps) Ethernet

USB2.0-to-Ethernet-adapter : TP-Link UE200 LAN adapter : USB2.0 / RJ45 LAN / 10/100Mbps Ethernet

USB3-hub : Vogek 6 port USB3.0 hub : powered hub / 6x USB3.0 out

office keyboard : Logitech K380 keyboard : full-size keys / wireless RF & Bluetooth / no numeric pad / macOS printing on-key / no trackpad

high-end office & design keyboard : Logitech MX keyboard : full-size keys / wireless RF & Bluetooth / numeric pad / macOS printing on-key / no trackpad

keyboard with trackpad : Logitech K400 Livingroom keyboard : full-size keys / wireless RF & Bluetooth / no numeric pad / no macOS printing on-key / trackpad

ergonomic mouse mat : Comfort Gel Wrist Support Mouse Pad

cable hose : Neoprene Cable Tube

 

 

fixed : Philips HUE lights not responding after upgrading to HUE Bridge

Question :

Previously we had our Philips HUE lights setup suing Bluetooth, but now we have bought ourselves a Philips HUE Bridge since we want to be able to set some wake-up, sleep and out-of-home routines on our HUE lights. But after installing the HUE Bridge, our Google Nest Hub can no longer connect to our HUE lights.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

Since you installed your Philips HUE lights over Bluetooth before you installed your Philips HUE Hub, you have switched from Bluetooth HUE connection to WiFi HUE connection, but your Google Nest Hub doesn’t know about this switch yet…

To fix this, do this :

  • first : to avoid confusion, it’s advisory to delete the HUE lights that you had set up over Bluetooth first from the Google Home.app
  • then, in the Google Home.app, click ‘Settings’
  • in ‘Settings’ screen, scroll down and click on ‘Add…’
  • in ‘Add and manage’ screen, click on ‘Setup device’
  • in ‘Setup’ screen, click on ‘have something already set up?’
  • in ‘Add devices’ screen, select ‘Philips HUE’ (if you don’t see it right away, use the search option top right)
  • you will be redirected to the MeetHUE.com login-page
  • login to your PhilipsHUE-account (you probably don’t have one yet, so either create a new one or sign in using your Google account)
  • follow the on-screen directions to link your HUE Bridge to your account ; press the big button on the HUE Bridge when prompted
  • now your HUE Bridge will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub
  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

If you want to be able to control the HUE lights in Zones different from the Rooms, use the PhilipsHUE.app to setup new Zones first :

  • open PhilipsHUE.app
  • if the app doesn’t open in the Settings screen automatically, click on Settings (bottom right)
  • in ‘Rooms & Zones’ screen, click on the ‘Create new’ button (top left) 
  • in ‘Create new – Room’ screen click on the ‘Create Zone’ button and follow the onscreen directions
  • now the Zone will be listed in Google Home.app also
  • when the Zone is listed on the ‘Home’ screen in Google Home.app, click on the name of the room
  • in [Room/Zone name] screen, click on the gear/sprocket icon (top right)
  • in ‘Room’ screen, click ‘Choose devices’
  • in ‘Choose devices’ screen, check all HUE lamps you want to include in this Zone (note that Google Home names Zones as Rooms) and click the ‘Next’ button

Now your Philips HUE lights will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub both individually and as Rooms/Zones (Google Home names both as Rooms) :

  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

Note : you can also select routines for the HUE lights from the Nest Hub if you have set them up in Google Home.app (like daily routines to use when you’re out of home)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : is there a need for a Philips HUE Bridge when you have a Google Nest Hub ?

Question :

We have a Google Nest Hub setup in our home and we are going to buy some Philips HUE lamps somewhere in the near future. Do we need the Philips HUE Bridge to control the HUE lamps from the Nest Hub or not ?

 

Answer :

No, not really, you can control your Philips HUE lights directly from your Google Nest Hub on-screen (or using voice assistant).

The added value of using the Philips HUE Bridge over using Bluetooth :

  • connect up to 50 HUE lights (vs. max. 10 using Bluetooth)
  • connect any Zigbee-compatible smart light from any other brand (vs. Philips HUE lights only using Bluetooth)
  • connect to any connected Zigbee-compatible smart light in or around your home (vs.  connecting only to Philips HUE lights within ca. 10m using Bluetooth)
  • control your HUE Bridge and connected smart lights from anywhere in the world (vs. connecting to local Philips HUE lights only
  • option to use Apple HomeKit to control your HUE Bridge and connected smart lights (vs. no Apple HomeKit compatibility using Bluetooth : Google Home or Amazon Alexa only)

Here’s how to set this up without a Philips HUE Bridge :

  • make sure you have setup your Philips HUE lights in Google Home.app
  • swipe down from the top of the screen on your Google Nest Hub
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights listed
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish
  • you can even select routines if you have set them up in Google Home.app (like daily routines to use when you’re out of home)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : control child’s bedroom HUE lamp from 2 devices

Question :

We recently got several light blubs replaced by Philips HUE lamps in our home. We have setup everything to be used from one device, but now my son wants to adjust his bedroom lamp himself from his own iPhone.

How do we set that up ?

 

Answer :

There are various ways of setting this up, and most of them are straight forward. Here are a few of the simplest ones :

If you do NOT have a Philips HUE Bridge :

If you do have a Philips HUE Bridge setup already :

The setup process is rather simple, especially if you have done this befor (like you mentioned) : just follow the onscreen directions.

Note : you can also control Philips HUE lamps from your AppleWatch (if you have one) using the watchOS version of the PhilipsHUE.app that is automatically installed if your AppleWatch is connected to your iPhone.

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : new hi-res icon for Scanmarker.app

Question :

I have recently bought an Scanmarker Air scanner-pen. Seems like a great device. I’ve also installed the macOS-app. Strange thing is that the app’s icon is very pixelated.

How can I change that ?

 

Answer :

Scanmarker has released new colorful versions of the Scanmarker Air pen that can be bought here. It’s a great device for :

  • reading out written text from a book (very handy for anyone having dyslexia)
  • translating text on-the-fly
  • scanning text (or just portions of text) from textbooks

The official icon of the current Scanmarker app for macOS is still a 32x32pixels icon, which is a very old that shouldn’t be used in macOS (where 1024x1024pixels icons are standard).

Simplest way to fix this is to download an appropriate icon of higher resolution and paste that onto the app. Here’s how to :

  • either download my custom made 1024×1024 icon here :
  • or download the original icon here (still fuzzy since it is a 300x300pixels icon enlarged to OSX-native 152x152pixels) :  Scanmarker Android app icon
  • or download the icon of the iOS app here : ScanmarkerAir iOS icon
  • or download the diap desktop icon here :ScanmarkerAir OSX icon
  • after downloading your preferred icon, do this :
  • select the Scanmarker app in your Applications folder
  • press [CMD]+[I] to open the “Info” popup menu
  • then click on the icon (top left) and a blue outline will open around it
  • then open the file (with the icon as a picture) you’ve just downloaded in Preview
  • in Preview press [CMD]+[A] to select the entire image
  • then return to the Info-popup window, and press [CMD]+[V] to paste the new icon
  • now your Scanmarker app has a better looking icon
  • to make sure it also shows on the Desktop, delete the old Scanmarker alias from the Dock, then open the Scanmarker app again and right-click on it’s icon in the Dock and select “Keep in Dock” from the popup menu

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

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