fixed : which iOS app can I use for the LeadEdge H245 dashcam ?

Question :

I have a LeadEdge H245 dashcam (1080p & WiFi) in my car that has been doing a great job for a few years now.

Recently, I switched to a new iPhone and in an attempt to free some space by deleting apps that I seldomly use, I have deleted the app that I had installed for my LeadEdge H245 dashcam…

And now I want to get some video of my dashcam and I therefore need to reinstall the app… but I can’t remember its name or find any info on this online…

Can you help me ?

 

Answer :

The LeadEdge H245 dashcam is a rebrand of the Novatek 96658 dashcam that is also sold as Junsun S550, Podofo, SLB Works, CarSun, Vakind and probably other brand/product names too.

There are at least 4 FREE apps that can connect to this dashcam (maybe there are more) :

  • Lerccenker.app
    • this app is pushed by LeadEdge as the app to use with your dash cam : it’s okay, but rather slow and feels a little out-dated
  • FinalCam.app
    • this app is suggested by LeadEdge as the alternative : it works, but apart from the live view, options are very limited
  • NovaCam.app
    • this app is made by Novatek and works with any Novatek-based dash cam : it’s far better than both Lerccenker.app and FinalCam.app
  • Dride.app
    • this app is made to work with any dash cam : it is fast and has a very nice user interface that is more intuitive than the NovaCamp.app (the ads are a little annoying though…)
    • note : Dride.app can also include GPS data to your dash cam videos by connecting to your iPhone (although you might find this option a little too privacy invasive…)

For all 4 of these apps, this is the way to connect to your Dash Cam :

  • turn ON the WiFi on your Dash Cam by pressing the DOWN-button on the left side of the housing until the WIFi-icon is displayed on-screen
  • then, on you iPhone, goto Settings.app > WiFi
  • on the Wi-Fi page, connect to the WiFi-network of your dash cam (probably the only one with a criptic name)
  • then open the dash cam app you want to use
  • fiddle around to get to know the options the app has, generally you can choose for ‘live video’ or ‘recorded video’ and you may also have ‘take picture’ as an option
    • additional instruction for NovaCam.app : in the Camera List, click on the Plus-icon (top-right) and click on ‘Wi-Fi’ when it appears in the list
    • additional instruction for Dride.app : choose “UGP 100 Universal Dash Cam” as your device

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : Philips HUE lights not responding after upgrading to HUE Bridge

Question :

Previously we had our Philips HUE lights setup suing Bluetooth, but now we have bought ourselves a Philips HUE Bridge since we want to be able to set some wake-up, sleep and out-of-home routines on our HUE lights. But after installing the HUE Bridge, our Google Nest Hub can no longer connect to our HUE lights.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

Since you installed your Philips HUE lights over Bluetooth before you installed your Philips HUE Hub, you have switched from Bluetooth HUE connection to WiFi HUE connection, but your Google Nest Hub doesn’t know about this switch yet…

To fix this, do this :

  • first : to avoid confusion, it’s advisory to delete the HUE lights that you had set up over Bluetooth first from the Google Home.app
  • then, in the Google Home.app, click ‘Settings’
  • in ‘Settings’ screen, scroll down and click on ‘Add…’
  • in ‘Add and manage’ screen, click on ‘Setup device’
  • in ‘Setup’ screen, click on ‘have something already set up?’
  • in ‘Add devices’ screen, select ‘Philips HUE’ (if you don’t see it right away, use the search option top right)
  • you will be redirected to the MeetHUE.com login-page
  • login to your PhilipsHUE-account (you probably don’t have one yet, so either create a new one or sign in using your Google account)
  • follow the on-screen directions to link your HUE Bridge to your account ; press the big button on the HUE Bridge when prompted
  • now your HUE Bridge will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub
  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

If you want to be able to control the HUE lights in Zones different from the Rooms, use the PhilipsHUE.app to setup new Zones first :

  • open PhilipsHUE.app
  • if the app doesn’t open in the Settings screen automatically, click on Settings (bottom right)
  • in ‘Rooms & Zones’ screen, click on the ‘Create new’ button (top left) 
  • in ‘Create new – Room’ screen click on the ‘Create Zone’ button and follow the onscreen directions
  • now the Zone will be listed in Google Home.app also
  • when the Zone is listed on the ‘Home’ screen in Google Home.app, click on the name of the room
  • in [Room/Zone name] screen, click on the gear/sprocket icon (top right)
  • in ‘Room’ screen, click ‘Choose devices’
  • in ‘Choose devices’ screen, check all HUE lamps you want to include in this Zone (note that Google Home names Zones as Rooms) and click the ‘Next’ button

Now your Philips HUE lights will be accessible from your Google Nest Hub both individually and as Rooms/Zones (Google Home names both as Rooms) :

  • on the Nest Hub, swipe down from the top of the screen
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish

Note : you can also select routines for the HUE lights from the Nest Hub if you have set them up in Google Home.app (like daily routines to use when you’re out of home)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : control child’s bedroom HUE lamp from 2 devices

Question :

We recently got several light blubs replaced by Philips HUE lamps in our home. We have setup everything to be used from one device, but now my son wants to adjust his bedroom lamp himself from his own iPhone.

How do we set that up ?

 

Answer :

There are various ways of setting this up, and most of them are straight forward. Here are a few of the simplest ones :

If you do NOT have a Philips HUE Bridge :

If you do have a Philips HUE Bridge setup already :

The setup process is rather simple, especially if you have done this befor (like you mentioned) : just follow the onscreen directions.

Note : you can also control Philips HUE lamps from your AppleWatch (if you have one) using the watchOS version of the PhilipsHUE.app that is automatically installed if your AppleWatch is connected to your iPhone.

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : watch all ZiggoGo channels on your TV

Question :

We have a very basic Dutch TV subscription from Ziggo, which suits us fine even though it’s analog TV (or should I say SD, as compared to HD). Now I recently installed the ZiggoGo.app to be able to watch live TV on my iPhone and iPad also. I then noticed that some of the TV channels that I can watch for FREE on ZiggoGo (like History Channel) are not available on my regular living room TV…

Is there a way to get all ZiggoGo channels on my TV without upgrading my Ziggo subscription ?

 

Answer :

Yes, there is.

Just use a Google Chromecast and on your TV and stream to it from the ZiggoGo.app.

To do so, you will need :

  • any TV with an HDMI-port (any smartTV will do)
  • a Google Chromecast – 1st generation or newer (*)
  • an iPhone or iPad
  • the GoogleHome.app
  • the ZiggoGo.app
  • any Ziggo TV subscription (even the most basic one will do)

(*) if you already own a Chromecast-imitation like an AnyCast-dongle or MiraCast-dongle you might be able to do this also, just don’t buy an imitation if you want to be sure that it works on forehand !

The way to do this is rather straightforward :

  • plug the Chromecast into your TV’s HDMI-port
  • make sure the Chromecast is connected to the same WiFi-network as your iPhone/iPad
    • you can check this in the GoogleHome.app on your iPhone/iPad
    • if you use a brandnew Chromecast you will need to install it first
    • to do so, install the GoogleHome.app and follow the on-screen directions
  • switch the TV’s input source to the Chromecast’s HDMI-port in the TV’s on-screen menu
  • open the ZiggoGo.app on your iPhone/iPad
  • make sure you are logged in to your Ziggo account on the ZiggoGo.app
    • the login name and password are the same ones you use to login on the Ziggo website – if you don’t have them at hand, contact Ziggo
  • then, select the live TV channel you want to watch
  • when the TV show starts, click on the Chromecast-icon (the rectangle with the WiFi-sign in the bottom-left corner) and click on your Chromecast in the popup-list
  • now you are watching the ZiggoGo (digital) TV-channel on your TV

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : AppleTV keeps getting new IP address continuously

Question :

I am using the IP Scanner (and LANscan) software to check my network performance whenever I encounter network problems. I have found that my AppleTV keeps getting multiple IP addresses from my router using DHCP…

What is going on and how can I fix this ?

 

Answer :

The most probable cause of your problem is that you are connection over WiFi and the AppleTV is positioned somewhere where WiFi-reception isn’t optimal, and where multiple base stations are giving an equally strong WiFi-signal, which is causing the AppleTV to constantly switch from a connection to the one WiFi-base station to the other and back again.

There is a slight chance that you have this problem when connecting over Ethernet LAN-cable also… in that case you might have some interference or data-loss on the cable which usually isn’t problematic, but still is sub-optimal…

The best and easiest way to fix this is to give the AppleTV a fixed IP-address.

To do so, do this (in tvOS 7.4 – for other versions of tvOS the actual screens may differ) :

  • unplug the AC-power cable from your AppleTV
  • restart your router (or unplug it from power for 30 seconds)
  • plug the AC-power cable back into your AppleTV
  • turn on your TV (the one that’s connected to your AppleTV)
  • turn on your AppleTV
  • goto Settings (the app that has a Sprocket/Gear-icon)
  • in the Settings-window, click on General
  • in the General-window, click on Network
  • in the Network-window, click on WiFi (or Ethernet if you use it)
  • in the WiFi-window (or Ethernet-window), click on Configure IP
  • in the ConfigureIP-window, make a photo of all settings or write them down (because this exact info is what you are going to enter manually), then click on Manual
  • in the IP-configuration window, roll the dials until the IP is set, then click OK
  • in the Subnetmask-configuration window, roll the dials until the Subnetmask is set, then click OK
  • in the Router-configuration window, roll the dials until the Router IP is set, then click OK
  • in the DNS-configuration window, roll the dials until the DNS is set (or use 008.008.008.008), then click OK
  • then wait for the setting so be accepted while the wheel spins
  • then exit, exit, exit until you’re back on the Home screen

That’s it !

Note : if you want to be completely sure that your AppleTV has accepted all settings, you can unplug and replug your AppleTV from power, but that is not as important as it used to be in older versions of tvOS – and you need to check afterwards in Settings to be completely sure

enjoy 😉

fixed : internet on wireless but not on LAN according to AirPort Utility

Question :

Lately I have had a bad and unstable internet connection. I have a Mac and it has been working fine for years. My internet provider is Vodafone-Ziggo.

I tried to find out what was wrong using the AirPortUtility.app on my Mac, and I found something strange : when selecting my wireless WiFi-network, my internet connection is presumed working, but when selecting my wired LAN-network, I get an error message saying there is no internet connection.

If it would have been the other way around, I could think of an explanation… but having wireless internet connection from my router and not LAN-internet just doesn’t make sense…

I’ve tried numerous resets of the Ziggo-modem, of my TimeCapsule and of my Mac. Nothing helps.

Do you have any suggestions on fixing this ?

 

Answer :

Even though you’ve tried most of the available options already, there is one other thing I would suggest to try :

  • make sure the UTP/Ethernet/LAN-cable is correctly connected into both your Mac and the ‘local network device’ (be it a TimeCapsule, a router, a modem, a network-switch or a wall-socket)
  • then, on your Mac : click on the Apple-icon (top-left on your Mac’s desktop screen)
  • in the pulldown menu, click on “System Preferences”
  • in the window that opens (“System Preferences”), click on “Network”
  • in the window that opens (“Network”), click on “Ethernet” in the list on the left
  • in the info that appears on the right, check if it says “Status : Connected”
  • if it doesn’t, your UTP/Ethernet/LAN-cable isn’t connected properly, so check all network-cables again until it says “Status : Connected”
  • then, click the Advanced-button
  • in the window that opens, click on the DNS-tab
  • in the info that opens, at “DNS Servers:” make sure that you have at least included one of the following DNS Servers : 8.8.8.8 (Google), 8.8.4.4 (Google), 208.67.222.222 (OpenDNS) and/or 208.67.220.220 (OpenDNS)
  • if none of those DNS Servers are listed yet, add them by clicking on the +/Plus-button bottom-left
  • then click on the Proxies-tab (of the elongated TCP/IP-button)
  • in the info that opens, make sure to remove the check-mark at both “Web Proxy (HTTP)” and “Secure Web Proxy (HTTPS)”
  • in case both were already switched OFF, I would suggest to switch both of them to ON
  • then leave the rest as is, and click on the OK-button
  • in the previous window that appears, click the “Apply”
  • now check the AirPortUtility.app again, and you should see that the internet connection is back up for both the wireless and wired/LAN connection
  • also check by opening Safari (or another internet browser) and refresh the page by clicking on the circular arrow in the address bar

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : use one printer in two networks at the same time

Question :

I have a network printer on my (private) network that I would like to make available to the people on my AirPort Guest Network, but I don’t want guests to access my private network.

Is there a way to do this ?

 

Answer :

There are options to do this, but it can’t be done the way you would find most elegant probably… the problem is the restriction in AirPort Guest Networks that users can’t connect to each other, so adding the printer to the AirPort Guest Network won’t make it available to any AirPort Guest Network user.

On the other hand, an other restriction on most network printers is that they only have one Ethernet-card that is shared between the UTP-cable port and the WiFi connection, so the cable-connection and the WiFi-connection will always have the same IP-address, making it impossible to connect the cable to your private network and joining the Guest Network using the WiFi-connection at the same time…

Your best option is to connect the Ethernet/UTP-cable and/or the printer’s WiFi to your private network and creating a separate network to be used as a Guest Network to which the printer can be connected using it’s USB-cable. Since you will need an extra wireless router or an extra (secondhand) AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule to create this separate Guest Network, you can plug the printer’s USB-cable into that wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule.

You could also use a printer server, if it isn’t possible to connect the printer’s USB-cable into the wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule. You can find relatively cheap print servers on Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Regarding the setup of your networks, you will probably be best off doing it like this :

  • set your internet modem in router mode (if you would set it in bridge mode, you wouldn’t be able to connect two separate networks behind it)
  • connect both routers (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to the internet modem
  • setup one router (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the private network and private WiFi network
  • setup the other router (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the Guest Network and Guest WiFi Network
  • make sure that the IP-ranges issued by both routers are completely different (to prevent easy connection from the Guest Network to your private network (and the other way around)
  • if any of your routers give a “Double NAT” error, just ignore it

That’s it !

the only downsite is that having such a complex network setup with multiple routers will have negative influence on your (internet) connection speed ; this difference in speed will probably not be very big if you have few devices connected, but if you have a lot of devices connected that also use a lot of bandwidth (like video streaming) you will probably have slower internet speed than you used to…

enjoy !