I have an AppleWatch 3 (or Series 3 as it is officially called) and a few days ago, an warning message popped up saying there its memory is full.
The warning reeds : Storage Full Try removing music or photos using the AppleWatch app on iPhone.
but… when I go to the Watch app on my iPhone, there are no photos or music that I can erase…
What can I do to solve this ?
In case you get a ‘Storage Full’ warning and you have an AppleWatch Series 3, your only option is to Unpair & Update, as you cannot erase any content manually. If you have a newer AppleWatch (an SE-Series, Series 4 or up) you can erase some content manually, so you could restart you AppleWatch and see if that helps, or you could try freeing up space by deleting media or apps. Here’s how to Unpair & Update :
on your iPhone, open the Watch-app
now, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together during the entire process (so the connection between the two will not be broken)
in the Watch-app, click the My Watch icon (bottom left) first, then click “My Watches” (top left)
in the “All Watches” window that opens, make sure that the AppleWatch you want to unpair is selected ( not really relevant if you only have one AppleWatch )
then, click on the INFO-icon (the i-in-a-circle icon) next to the selected AppleWatch
in the “Apple Watch” window that opens, click on “Unpair Apple Watch” (bottom left)
then, type your AppleID password when asked
note : upon request, make sure to select to keep your cellular plan if you have a GPS+Cellular AppleWatch
now click to confirm the unpairing
note : if you get a message that the unpairing might have gone wrong, and the AppleWatch is no longer listed in the Watch-app on your iPhone, try resetting your AppleWatch by long-pressing the Side Button until the SOS-slider appears ; then click the power button that also appeared (top right) ; if that still doesn’t unpair the AppleWatch properly, select “Erase all content” from the Settings menu
note : upon request, disable Activation Lock by entering your AppleID password
your iPhone will now create a backup of your AppleWatch’s content & apps before erasing your AppleWatch (if needed, you can use that backup to restore to a ‘clean’ Apple Watch)
after the AppleWatch has been erased, start by setting it up as a new AppleWatch
to do so, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together and follow the onscreen instructions
when done, you have a ‘new’ (but ’empty’) AppleWatch, and the latest available version of WatchOS will be installed
now, you will probably want to reinstall your apps & content from your backup – to do so, do this :
unpair the AppleWatch again
then setup your AppleWatch once again from your iPhone, but this time, upon request, choose “restore from backup” (not “set up as new”)
Today, on my iPhone I got a message from FindMy.app in my closed screen Notifications, and it is rather cryptic : “Replace the battery on left soon” and soon after I read it, it seems to have changed to “Replace the battery on right soon”… I have no idea what this is about (maybe because the message is not in proper English and makes not sense in that respect either)…
When I clicked on this alert message, the FindMy.app opened showing one of my AIrTags. But since my AirTags are only a few months old, I can’t imagine their batteries are already running low…
What is going on ?
What if I tell you that the new AirPods Pro 2 (so the 2022 version) have AirTag-technology and software to make them easier to find ?
Do you also have the new AirPods Pro 2 maybe ?
The current version of the AirPods Pro 2 software has a bug in it that causes erratic alert messages in FindMy.app. You might encounter any of these alerts :
Replace the battery on right soon.
Replace the battery on left soon.
Replace the battery on Case soon.
So, you can deny these alerts. All you can do is hope that Apple fixes this in a software update asap.
I had to do a small retouch on an JPEG-image that is on my Mac, but my AdobeCS-licence is out-fo-date (and I don’t want to renew it until I need to do more tan one hour of work with it) so I can’t use Photoshop CS as I would usually do.
Then I remembered that I have the FREE Adobe PS Express-app installed on my iPad that should be able to do the trick. I figured out a way to get the JPEG-image to open using iCloud, but when I try to save the end result, the image is not saved in iCloud…
How do I get the edited JPEG back onto my Mac ?
To open the JPEG-image that is on your Mac in PS Express-app on your iPad, do this :
first, on your Mac, make sure that the image is saved on your Desktop (or another easily accessible folder that is being synced across your devices using your iCloud-account)
then, on your iPad, open the Files-app and got iCloud Drive > Desktop (or the folder where the JPEG-image is in)
now click on the JPEG-image and it will open in a preview window
there, click on the Export-button top-right [the square with the upward pointing arrow]
in the pulldown-menu you will not see what you are looking for straight away, so scroll down and click on “PS Express”
now the JPEG-image will open in the PS Express-app and you can edit it
After editing, export the image back onto your Mac doing this :
make sure you have the finished the image open in PS Express-app on your iPAd
now, click on the Export-button top-right [the square with the upward pointing arrow]
in the window that opens, you will not see what you are looking for straight away, so scroll all the way down and click on More [the three dot icon]
now, in the popup menu that opens, scroll down and click on “Save to Files”
in the new pop-up that opens, typ the name you want to give the JPEG-image over the random name that was automatically generated (to by-pass potential naming conflicts, give it a slightly different name than the original image)
then, in the list of iCloud Drive folders, select Desktop (or the specific folder that you want to save the finished image to)
then check that it says “Item will be saved to “Desktop” on iCloud Drive.” and click Save [top-right]
then go back to your Mac, and you will see the edited JPEG-image there
Question : I have a Medisana PM100BT Oximeter which works great, but since a week or so it hangs during sync ; the sync reaches 8% then nothing happens, the VitaDock+.app hangs and the sync fails.
I’ve looked on the Medisana-website, in their manuals, tried to contact them and searched the internet myself, but I can’t find the solution anywhere… how can I fix this ?
The solution is simple if you know the cause : for some reason your Oximeter was switched into “real-time” mode, but it needs to be in “spot-check” mode for the VitaDock+.app syncing to work.
Here’s how to do this :
make sure your finger is out of the oximeter
now, long-press the green ON/OFF-button
when the MODE-screen appears, short-press the green ON/OFF-button to switch to another mode
make sure the triangular arrow is at “Spot-check” before proceeding
when “Spot-check” is set, long-press the ON/OFF-button to go back to the main screen
now, open the VitaDock+.app on your iPhone
then, put your finger in the oximeter and press the ON/OFF-button to start the measurement
if you have previously set up the oximeter in the VitaDock+.app, the oximeter will now sync
if no syncing happens in the VitaDock+.app, click on the Devices-button top-right, scroll down to HEALTH | PULSEOXIMETER, click on it and follow the on-screen directions for setting up the Bluetooth connection.
I have a bunch of Philips Hue light bulbs and one of a group of three had to be replaced. I have installed a new one and connected it to the Philips Hue Bridge using the Hue.app on my iPhone. And that works properly. But it turned out that in the GoogleHome.app the new one was not in the same group as the other two. I figured out how to fix that, so it’s now working properly when using the GoogleHome.app also.
However, when I am trying to control the Hue lights from my Google Nest Hub, the new Hue light bulb is still in a separate room… I looked for an option to sync the settings of the Rooms on the Google Nest Hub and it’s settings, in the GoogleHome.app and in the Hue.app, but there is none… I’ve also looked this problem up online, and the only solution given is to completely reinstall the Hue light bulb (and if that doesn’t work ‘just’ completely reinstalling multiple or even all Hue light bulbs…)
Isn’t there any easier solution ?
Yes there is. And it is extremely simple : after you have made sure that the settings are the way you want them to on the GoogleHome.app, just unplug the Google Nest Hub from power, wait about 30 seconds and reconnect the power… now the Google Nest Hub will restart and fetch the updated settings from the cloud… so, everything is synced.
That’s it !
Note : if anyone reading this also wants to know how to move a Hue light bulb from one room to another in the GoogleHome.app, read this post.
I have some Chromecast devices (a Google Chromecast, a Google Nest Hub, a Google Home Mini, etc.) that I want to stream to from my iPhone. But even though te Apple AirPlay streaming option shows up, the Google Chromecast option only shows up in some of my iPhone apps and not in the other ones : in my case I can stream to Google Chromecast devices from the Spotify and Netflix iOS-apps, and not from Disney+, AmazonPrime and ZiggoGo…
What is wrong ? How can I solve this ?
Even though AirPlay is always available on iOS/iPadOS and Apple AirPlay devices are automatically detected by default, the Google Chromecast option is turned off by default.
Since you can stream to some Chromecast-able devices and not to others, you seem to have turned on the option to do so per app individually. Yes, you need to switch on the Chromecast-ing option for each individual iOS/iPadOS-app…
To do so, do this :
make sure that your iPhone/iPad is connected to the the same WiFi network that the Chromecast-device(s) that you want to cast to is/are on
open the Settings.app in iOS/iPadOS
in the Settings page that opens, scroll down to Privacy (the blue icon with the white hand) and click on it
in the Privacy page that opens, click on Local Network (the blue icon with the white globe outline)
in the Local Network page that opens, scroll down to the app(s) that you need and set it’s slider to ON (slide to right will make the slider green and turn the option ON)
your apps are now able to discover the Chromecast devices that are on the same WiFi network
now, turn on the app that you want to stream from and the Chromecast-icon should appear (note that in most cases the AirPlay-icon will immediately appear and the Chromecast-icon will be added with a slight delay)
then start the video (or audio) you want to play and click on the Chromecast-icon to select the Chromecast-able device you want to stream to