fixed : EyeTV 4 crashes after installing macOS 13 Ventura

Question :

Today I have upgraded to macOS 13 Ventura. Now the EyeTV 4 (64bit) app no longer works. The app doesn’t open, it seems to crash, because a Report or Ignore “Send to Apple” window opens… I’ve tried downloading the latest version of EyeTv from the Geniatech website, but even after installing that, the only thing that I get after starting the app is the Report or Ignore window…

Is there any way to fix this ?

Answer :

For macOS 13 Ventura, you will need at least build 8528 of the EyeTV 4 app. You can download it from the Geniatech website :

After installation, you might need to go through the setup steps again… here are some tips if you need to do so :

  • make sure you have your licence number at hand, as you might be asked to enter it anew
  • make sure you select the proper version of the EyeTV-stick you have [ note : the MyGica DVB-T2 is not listed separately, so make sure to select its hardware-twin, the EyeTV Hybrid T2 ]
  • make sure you select the right input source : choose DVB-T/T2 if you have an aerial antenna connected, and choose DVB-C PAL BG if you have a coaxial from you cable-TV provider plugged in

that’s it !

enjoy ūüėČ


fixed : where can I get OS version 8.4.4 for AppleTV 3 ?

Question :

I was having a problem on my WiFi network so I had to reconfigure my AppleTV 3 from 2012. While doing so, I also wanted to do an update for the AppleTV-version of iOS. When I tried to do so, the AppleTV said I had version 7.6.2 installed and there were no automatic updates available. To be completely sure, I looked up my AppleTV 3 in the and found that the Maximum OS listed there is version 8.4.4, so I searched online to see what info I could find on a 8.4.4 update.

I found that the 8.4.3 update was released around April 2020, and that it could be installed over USB using a Mac with iTunes on it… but on the Apple website Software update 7.6.2 is still listed as the latest release…

What is going on ?

Answer :

There is no problem… at least, there is no problem regarding the updates, the only problem is in the naming…

It’s just that the AppleTVs initially ran on iOS, just like the iPhones and iPads… (correction : the original AppleTV ran MacOSX) …but as the products drifted apart, the versions of iOS needed for various iDevices did too …so Apple finally split the old iOS up in iOS for iPhone, iPadOS for iPad and tvOS for AppleTV.

For the iPads this wasn’t really confusing as iOS 12 was succeeded by iPadOS 13. But for AppleTV the naming became extremely confusing : tvOS 9.0 was introduced almost simultaneously with and only for the 4th generation AppleTV (now called AppleTV HD) in autumn 2015, but the previous versions of AppleTV kept running versions of iOS, just anonymously :

  • Apple TV 1.0 = “Front Row” release = MacOSX “Tiger” 10.4.7tv (for Intel) = build 8N5722 = 20070321 iTV release
  • Apple TV 1.1 = “YouTube” release = 20070720 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.0 = “Take Two” release = 20080115 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.0.1 = “Genre” release = 20080328 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.0.2 = “Network” release = 20080414 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.1 = “MobileMe” release = 20080709 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.2 = “HD” release = 20081002 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.3 = “AirTunes” release = 20081119 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.3.1 = “No Hax” release = 20090225 iTV release
  • Apple TV 2.4 = “Gesture” release = 20090624 iTV release
  • Apple TV 3.0 = “Genius” release = 20091029 iTV release
  • Apple TV 3.0.1 = “Reprise” release = 20091107 iTV release
  • Apple TV 3.0.2 = “Finale” release = 20100211 iTV release
  • TV release 4.0 = Apple TV 4.0 = iOS 4.1tv = build 8M89 = 20100901 aTV release
  • TV update 4.1 = Apple TV 4.1 = iOS 4.2tv = build 8C150 = 20101122 aTV release
  • TV update 4.1.1 = Apple TV 4.1.1 = iOS 4.2.1tv = build 8C154 = 20101214 aTV release
  • TV update 4.2 = Apple TV 4.2 = iOS 4.3tv = build 8F191m = 20110309 aTV release
  • TV update 4.2.1 = Apple TV 4.2.1 = iOS 4.3tv2 = build 8F202 = 20110322 aTV release
  • TV update 4.2.2 = Apple TV 4.2.2 = iOS 4.3tv3 = build 8F305 = 20110511 aTV release
  • TV update 4.3 = Apple TV 4.3 = iOS 4.3tv4 = build 8F455 = 20110801 aTV release
  • TV update 4.4 = Apple TV 4.4 = iOS 5.0tv = build 9A334v = 20111012 aTV release
  • TV update 4.4.1 = Apple TV 4.4.1 = iOS 5.0tv2 = build 9A335a = 20111017 aTV release
  • TV update 4.4.2 = Apple TV 4.4.2 = iOS 5.0tv3 = build 9A336a = 20111024 aTV release
  • TV update 4.4.3 = Apple TV 4.4.3 = iOS 5.0.1tv = build 9A405l = 20111117 aTV release
  • TV update 4.4.4 = Apple TV 4.4.4 = iOS 5.0.1tv2 = build 9A406a = 20111215 aTV release
  • TV update 5.0 = Apple TV 5.0 = iOS 5.1tv = build 9B179b = 20120307 aTV release
  • TV update 5.0.1 = Apple TV 5.0.1 = iOS 5.1.1tv = build 9B206f = 20120510 aTV release
  • TV update 5.0.2 = Apple TV 5.0.2 = iOS 5.1.1tv2 = build 9B830 = 20120605 aTV release
  • TV update 5.1 = Apple TV 5.1 = iOS 6.0tv = build 10A406E = 20120924 aTV release
  • TV update 5.1.1 = Apple TV 5.1.1 = iOS 6.0.1tv = build 10B831 = 20121129 aTV release
  • TV update 5.2 = Apple TV 5.2 = iOS 6.1tv = build 10B143 = 20130128 aTV release
  • TV update 5.2.1 = Apple TV 5.2.1 = iOS 6.1.3tv = build 10B329a = 20130319 aTV release
  • TV update 5.3 = Apple TV 5.3 = iOS 6.1.4tv = build 10B809 = 20130713 aTV release
  • TV update 6.0 = Apple TV 6.0 = iOS 7.0.2tv = build 11A502 = 20130723 aTV release
  • TV update 6.0.1 = Apple TV 6.0.1 = iOS 7.0.39tv = build 11B511d = 20131024 aTV release
  • TV update 6.0.2a = Apple TV 6.0.2 = iOS 7.0.4tv = build 11B554a = 20131114 aTV release
  • TV update 6.0.2b = Apple TV 6.0.2 = iOS 7.0.5tv = build 11B601 = 20140130 aTV release
  • TV update 6.0.2c = Apple TV 6.0.2 = iOS 7.0.6tv = build 11B651 = 20140221 aTV release
  • TV update 6.1 = Apple TV 6.1 = iOS 7.1tv = build 11D169b = 20140310 aTV release
  • TV update 6.1.1 = Apple TV 6.1.1 = iOS 7.1.1tv = build 11D201c = 20140422 aTV release
  • TV update 6.2 = Apple TV 6.2 = iOS 7.1.2tv = build 11D257c = 20140630 aTV release
  • TV update 6.2.1 = Apple TV 6.2.1 = iOS 7.1.2tv2 = build 11D258 = 20140717a aTV release
  • TV update 7.0 = Apple TV 7.0 = iOS 8.0tv = build 12A365c = 20140717b aTV release
  • TV update 7.0.1 = Apple TV 7.0.1 = iOS 8.1tv = build 12B4410a = 20141020 aTV release
  • TV update 7.0.2 = Apple TV 7.0.2 = iOS 8.1.1tv = build 12B435 = 20141117 aTV release
  • TV update 7.0.3 = Apple TV 7.0.3 = iOS 8.1.3tv = build 12B466 = 20150127 aTV release
  • TV update 7.1 = Apple TV 7.1 = iOS 8.2tv = build 12D508 = 20150309 aTV release
  • TV update 7.2 = Apple TV 7.2 = iOS 8.3tv = build 12F69 = 2015048 aTV release
  • tvOS 9.0 = build 13T396 = 20151029 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 9.0.1 = build 13T402 = 20151109 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 9.1 = build 13U85 = 20151208 ATV4 release
  • tvOS 9.1.1 = build 13U717 = 20160125 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.2.1 = Apple TV 7.2.1 = iOS 8.4.1tv = build 12H523 = 20160125 aTV release
  • tvOS 9.2 = build 13Y234 = 20160321 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 9.2.1 = build 13Y772 = 20160516 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 9.2.2 = build 13Y825 = 20160718 ATV4 release
  • tvOS 10.0 = build 14T330 = 20160813 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 10.0.1 = build 14U71 = 20161024 ATV4 release
  • tvOS 10.1 = build 14U593 = 20161212 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.2.2 = Apple TV 7.2.2 = iOS 8.4.2tv = build 12H606 = 20161212 aTV release
  • tvOS 10.2 = build 14W265 = 20170327 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 10.2.1 = build 14W585a = 20170515 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 10.2.2 = build 14W756 = 20170719 ATV4 release
  • tvOS 11.0 = build 15J381 = 20170919 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 11.1
    • tvOS 11.2
    • tvOS 11.2.1
    • tvOS 11.2.5
    • tvOS 11.2.6
    • tvOS 11.3
    • tvOS 11.4
    • tvOS 11.4.1
  • tvOS 12.0 = build 16J364 = 20180917 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 12.0.1
    • tvOS 12.1
    • tvOS 12.1.1
    • tvOS 12.1.2
    • tvOS 12.2
    • tvOS 12.2.1
  • tvOS 12.3 = build 16M153 = 20190513 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.3 = Apple TV 7.3 = iOS 8.4.2tv = build 12H847 = 20190513 aTV release
  • tvOS 12.4 = build 16M568 = 20190722 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.3.1 = Apple TV 7.3.1 = iOS 8.4.2tv2 = build 12H864 = 20190722 aTV release
    • tvOS 12.4.1
  • tvOS 13.0 = build 17J586 = 20190924 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.4 = Apple TV 7.4 = iOS 8.4.3tv = build 12H876 = 20190924 aTV release
    • tvOS 13.2
    • tvOS 13.3
  • tvOS 13.4 = build 17L256 = 20200324 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.5 = Apple TV 7.5 = iOS 8.4.4tv = build 12H885 = 20200324 aTV release
    • tvOS 13.4.5
    • tvOS 13.4.6
    • tvOS 13.4.8
  • tvOS 14.0 = build 18J386 = 20200916 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.6 = Apple TV 7.6 (8130) = iOS 8.4.5tv = build 12H903 = 20200916 aTV release
    • tvOS 14.0.1
    • tvOS 14.0.2
    • tvOS 14.2 = build 18K57 = 20201105 ATV4 release
  • tvOS 14.3 = build 18K561 = 20201214 ATV4 release
  • TV update 7.6.2 = Apple TV 7.6.2 (8144) = iOS 8.4.6tv = build 12H914 = 20201214 aTV release
    • tvOS 14.4 = build 18K802 = 20210126 ATV4 release
    • tvOS 14.5

As you can see from the list above, there is no TV update 8.x yet… the version you’ve been reading about online is the “based on iOS 8.4.4”-version, which actually is TV update 7.5

So, if your 3rd generation AppleTV lists it’s OS version as 7.6.2 you already have the latest OS-version available (…at the time of writing this post : mid March 2021)

That’s it !

enjoy ūüėČ

FYI : it’s good to know that there’s a slight hardware difference between the 2012 version and the 2013 version of the 3rd generation AppleTV :

  • A1427 = AppleTV3,1 = 3rd generation AppleTV (2012)
  • A1469 = AppleTV3,2 = 3rd generation AppleTV (2013)

NOTE : the procedure you are mentioning of upgrading or altering the version of the AppleTV OS by connecting the AppleTV to your Mac by USB-cable is a “jailbrake”, which Apple considers “illegal”…

fixed : listen to Dutch-language live radio on Google Home or Nest speakers

Question :

We have just gotten ourselves a Google Nest Hub in our Kitchen and a Google Home Mini in our living room. From the info in it seems like Spotify, YouTube Music and Google Play Music are the only options to play music on it…

…are we overlooking something ?


Answer :

The info in might be quite confusing, but what you’ve found is the list of music services that are supported by Google Assistant (Google’s voice-assistant that is like Apple’s Siri). For now, “Hey Google” can only voice-control Spotify, YouTube Music and Google Play Music…

But… you can use both the Google Nest Hub‘s and the Google Home Mini‘s speaker as a speaker to stream to using the Chromecast protocol from any app that supports it on your iPhone or iPad… (…and on your iPhone/iPad you can use the “Hey Siri” voice-control)

So, if you stream from your iPhone/iPad, you can use any online radio station’s app that supports Chromecast-ing to ‘listen to the radio’ on your Google Nest Hub or Google Home Mini.

If do not want to be limited to one radio station only, your best option probably is the that you can download from the AppStore. Even though you might feel like you get tricked into buying the payed subscription for TuneIn Radio, you can just skip that, as even the FREE version will get what you want (for free !).

Note : the can stream to both Chromecast-compatible and AirPlay-compatible speakers.

Dutch-language Live Radio stations that can be found in are :

  • Radio 538
  • Radio Veronica
  • Q-Music
  • Sky Radio
  • Radio10 Gold
  • 100% NL
  • SLAM!
  • KINK
  • Arrow Classic Rock
  • ClassicNL
  • NPO FunX
  • NPO 2FM Retro
  • NPO 2FM Soul & Jazz
  • NPO 3FM
  • NPO 3FM Alternative
  • NPO Radio 4 Concerten
  • NPO Radio 5
  • VRT Studio Brussel
  • VRT Klara
  • Q-Music Belgi√ę
  • NRJ Belgi√ę
  • ‚Ķand a lot of other local, national and international music stations

Just start the on your iPhone/iPad, turn on the live radio station you want to listen to, and click on the Chromecast-icon (rectangle with WiFi-sign in the bottom left corner) or AirPlay-icon (rectangle with the triangle in the bottom) to select the Chromecast or AirPlay speaker you want to stream to.

That’s it !

enjoy ūüėČ


fixed : AppleTV keeps getting new IP address continuously

Question :

I am using the IP Scanner (and LANscan) software to check my network performance whenever I encounter network problems. I have found that my AppleTV keeps getting multiple IP addresses from my router using DHCP…

What is going on and how can I fix this ?


Answer :

The most probable cause of your problem is that you are connection over WiFi and the AppleTV is positioned somewhere where WiFi-reception isn’t optimal, and where multiple base stations are giving an equally strong WiFi-signal, which is causing the AppleTV to constantly switch from a connection to the one WiFi-base station to the other and back again.

There is a slight chance that you have this problem when connecting over Ethernet LAN-cable also… in that case you might have some interference or data-loss on the cable which usually isn’t problematic, but still is sub-optimal…

The best and easiest way to fix this is to give the AppleTV a fixed IP-address.

To do so, do this (in tvOS 7.4 – for other versions of tvOS the actual screens may differ) :

  • unplug the AC-power cable from your AppleTV
  • restart your router (or unplug it from power for 30 seconds)
  • plug the AC-power cable back into your AppleTV
  • turn on your TV (the one that’s connected to your AppleTV)
  • turn on your AppleTV
  • goto Settings (the app that has a Sprocket/Gear-icon)
  • in the Settings-window, click on General
  • in the General-window, click on Network
  • in the Network-window, click on WiFi (or Ethernet if you use it)
  • in the WiFi-window (or Ethernet-window), click on Configure IP
  • in the ConfigureIP-window, make a photo of all settings or write them down (because this exact info is what you are going to enter manually), then click on Manual
  • in the IP-configuration window, roll the dials until the IP is set, then click OK
  • in the Subnetmask-configuration window, roll the dials until the Subnetmask is set, then click OK
  • in the Router-configuration window, roll the dials until the Router IP is set, then click OK
  • in the DNS-configuration window, roll the dials until the DNS is set (or use, then click OK
  • then wait for the setting so be accepted while the wheel spins
  • then exit, exit, exit until you’re back on the Home screen

That’s it !

Note : if you want to be completely sure that your AppleTV has accepted all settings, you can unplug and replug your AppleTV from power, but that is not as important as it used to be in older versions of tvOS – and you need to check afterwards in Settings to be completely sure

enjoy ūüėČ

fixed : using a Nintendo Switch on an HD-ready TV without HDMI-input


the solution outlined below is your best option for all devices that have an HDMI port as their best or only video output, including (but not limited to) gaming consoles like Playstation PS3/PS4, Xbox 360 & Xbox One, Nintendo Switch & Wii-U and all versions of AppleTV


Question :

I just bought a Nintendo Switch gaming console and I want to connect it to my old flatscreen 26″ LCD-TV that doesn’t have HDMI.

Even tough the TV is able to display HD-video up to 1080i and computer-display resolutions up to 1280×768 pixels at 60Hz, it does not have an HDMI input, neither a digital audio input (a.k.a. “Toslink”).

The only input options are :

– DVI digital video + 3.5mm (a.k.a. “jack”) analog audio

– VGA analog video + 3.5mm (a.k.a. “jack”) analog audio

– Component YPbPr analog video + stereo analog audio (5 plugs, a.k.a. “RCA” or “tulip” or “chinch”)

– S-video analog video (S-video plug) + stereo analog audio (a.k.a. “RCA” or “tulip” or “chinch”)

– SCART analog video + audio (SCART plug)

How do I connect my Nintendo Switch to this TV-set ?


Answer :

Even though it might seem the most obvious to connect the Nintendo Switch’s HDMI-output to the TV’s DVI-input, since HDMI and DVI are 100% video-compatible, this comes with 2 problems :

– DVI has no audio, so you will have to connect the audio separately ; in this case that would require a DAC (digital-analog-converter) for your audio since your TV has no digital audio input

– DVI does not support HDCP-encryption as HDMI does, so any ‘copyright-protected’ HDMI content will be blocked when connected to DVI…

So… do not try to use the DVI-input, but use the Component YPbPr connection, especially since the digital-to-analog video-conversion gets rid of the HDCP-limitations for you also !

This converter cable is the most elegant option that will do the trick for you :

LogiLink HDMI to YPbPr & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

LogiLink HDMI to YPbPr & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

LogiLink HDMI to YPbPr & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

…it turns out that the HDMI-output of the Nintendo Switch is supplying enough power to ¬†power the built-in converter, so you don’t need to connect the USB-power cable.

Donate Button (MacManusNL)


If you have an HD-Ready flatscreen TV and you want to connect an AppleTV or a gaming console (Nintendo Wii-U, Nintendo Switch, Playstation PS3/PS4, Xbox One or Xbox 360), your best option is to use the HDMI-to-YPbPr converter-cable mentioned above.

But… in some cases these might also be interesting :

An HDMI-to-VGA&stereo converter-cable :

LogiLink HDMI to VGA & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

LogiLink HDMI to VGA & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

LogiLink HDMI to VGA & Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

An HDMI-to-HDMI&stereo converter-cable : [so this splits the audio from the HDMI-video signal and converts it into a separate analog stereo (2x RCA) signal, but beware that the output video signal is 720p, 1080p and 1080i only, which is problematic for most HD-ready flatscreen TVs, especially when combined with an HDMI-to-DVI converter] :

LogiLink HDMI to HDMI & Analog Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

LogiLink HDMI to HDMI & Analog Audio Converter Cable (2m) []

test : Albert Heijn (a.k.a. iClever) Apple-imitation bluetooth keyboard

The official Apple Bluetooth keyboard looks really cool and works smoothly, but it’s expensive… a little too expensive for most purposes people say…

Of course there have been lots of alternative wireless keyboards available, but none really got the looks of a genuine Apple one (for some that is a must). That’s probably the reason why some unknown asian company has made an un-branded ‘white label’ all-plastic knock-off imitation which – at first glance – looks nearly identical to the aluminum Apple bluetooth keyboard. This imitation keyboard is available under a wide variety of brands, like the iClever-brand in most of the world, but for instance also under the dutch supermarket Albert Heijn’s own private label.

The iClever wireless keyboard can be purchased from, when you want a regular QWERTY-layout, and from if you want a german QWERTZ-layout.

Anyway, the main question is : is it any good ?

Simple answer : Yes, but…

Let me clarify : Yes, it’s a really nice keyboard to have and to use, with an interesting price tag below¬†‚ā¨ 25 (sometimes even in the ‚ā¨ 15 region). But it comes with a few flaws, so to quickly round up the verdict :

It’s an ideal low-budget wireless secondary keyboard for use with any Apple device that has a primary keyboard built-in.

To be more specific :

it’s a great¬†low-budget wireless keyboard for use with an AppleTV

it’s a very nice low-budget wireless keyboard for use with an iPad or iPhone (but there might be quite a few handier options, like a iPad-cover with built-in keyboard)

it’s a good low-budget secondary¬†keyboard for use with a MacBook (Air/Pro), for instance when your MacBook is closed and connected to a bigger screen

it’s a handy, but slightly tricky¬†keyboard for use with a Mac mini, iMac or Mac Pro (for these Macs I would advice to keep an¬†regular¬†USB-keyboard at hand for emergencies)

Why ?

NOTE (*) : the top-left key (the one with the open square) on this keyboard is the [HOME] key

– it doesn’t have an Escape (ESC) key, so when any program on your Mac hangs, you will not be able to Force Quit the application with this keyboard…

UPDATE (*) : to [ESC], use this key-combo : [FN] + [HOME]

so, to Force Quit, use this key-combo : [CMD] + [ALT] + [FN] + [HOME]

– it doesn’t have an Eject key for the DVD/CD-drive, so when this is your only keyboard, you will not be able to get any CD or DVD out of your Mac easily… you will need to do the annoying drag-to-the-trash move using your mouse each and every time…

UPDATE (*) : to Eject, use this key (not a key-combo) : [F5]

– it doesn’t have any option to set the (energy saving) auto-disconnect function to a longer interval… which means that when your Mac also goes into (energy saving) sleep mode, the ¬†keyboard has a lot of problems waking¬†your Mac… (e.g. you will need to press any button for a prolonged time, but doing so also makes your Mac see that as input for any application that was still open… you might mess up your open Word-document with an enormous line of spaces in doing so…)

UPDATE (*) : to Wake From Sleep, use this key (not a key combo) : [HOME]

– the keyboard is often recognized too late when starting up your Mac, so you can’t use it to type your password during login, so you can’t start using your Mac… this is possibly only a problem for older Macs and/or older versions of MacOSX, but still…

I have tested this keyboard with Apple devices only, so I can’t tell about the compatibility with other devices, but I would think it will be similar : good to great for use with smartphones and tablets running Android and Windows Mobile, but rather troublesome¬†for use with a Windows-PC…


(*) special thanks to Arjan de Boer for these not-so-obvious, but very useful key-combos

fixed : setup LogiLink WL0083 as WiFi-to-ethernet-bridge

Question :

I have a Philips BluRay player which has the option to connect to the internet (for things like YouTube and Picasa), which I think would be interesting to every once in a while.  The BluRay player has two options to connect to the internet, either using an ethernet network cable or using the special Philips WiFi-to-USB-dongle that is very expensive.

Problem is the BluRay player is next to my TV (and my AppleTV), but I do not have an ethernet cable connection there, only WiFi… (and my AppleTV cannot share it’s WiFi connection through it’s ethernet port…)

My first thought was to use an Apple AirPort Express and connect it to the BluRay player’s ethernet-port to use it as a WiFi/AirPort-client… but since I do not have an AirPort Express (yet), buying one would even be a more expensive option than buying the official Philips WiFi-to-USB-dongle…

On the other hand… I do happen to have a mini/portable WiFi-router (a LogiLink WL0083) lying around, which should be able to act as a WiFi-to-ethernet-bridge also…

But… even after several tries, I did not succeed in setting the WL0083 up properly…

Any idea how that should be done ?

Answer :

Yes !

Actually it’s rather simple, you just have to setup the LogiLink WL0083 as “Client+AP” and use the setup-wizard of the web-interface, but there are 3 things to know :

-1- the default IP-address of the LogiLink WL0083 is so you need to be sure that the network you want it to connect to does not use the to range of IP-adresses (so you might have to reconfigure your ‘entire’ network to use the to range…)

-2- to make it a “Client only” instead of a “Client+AP”, you should set SSID broadcast to “Hidden” and leave the additional (extender) SSID in default “Logilink” and “Disabled”

-3- and… when finishing up, do not forget to change the IP-address of your Mac’s WiFi and ethernet connection back to “DHCP”

in a step-by-step guide, that would be :

Рmake sure your WiFi network is not using the to range of IP-adresses (if it does, reconfigure your network router to use another range of IP addresses, and reconfigure all clients in your network that use Static IP addresses)

– then unplug your ethernet cable from your regular network

– disconnect from your regular WiFi/AirPort-network

– connect the LogiLink WL0083 to your Mac using an ethernet cable, and connect it’s USB-cable¬†to a powered USB-port (e.g. on your Mac)

– then press the small “WPS/Reset”-button on the WL0083 for about 5 seconds (to reset it)

– then, on your Mac, go to Apple Menu (Apple icon top-left on the screen) –> System Preferences –> Network –> Ethernet and change it to “Using DHCP with manual address” and type the IP-address in the input field

– then open Safari and type into the URL-field ; for User Name and Password type “admin” (both the same)

– now the LogiLink web interface should open

– click on the “Client+AP” tab, then “Setup Wizard” on the left, followed by “Next” on the left

– on the next screen, start by clicking on the “Scan”-button, and wait for the list of SSIDs of local WiFi/AirPort-networks to appear

– then select your WiFi/AirPort-network from the list

– everything will then be automatically filled out, apart from “Pass Phrase:”, there you should type your WiFi/AirPort-password

– then click “Next”

– in the “Wireless Basic Settings”-screen that opens, set “Network Mode” to “11b/g/n mixed mode”, leave “SSID” as it is (probably “Logilink”), set “Broadcast SSID” to “Disable” and leave the rest as it is automatically set

– then click “Next”

– in the “Wireless Security Settings”-screen that opens, set “Security Mode” to “Disable”, and leave the rest as it is

– then click “Next”

– in the next screen click “Apply” and the WL0083 will reboot

– then, on your Mac, make sure that you are NOT connected to a WiFi/AirPort-network

– then go to Apple Menu –> System Preferences –> Network¬†–> Ethernet and change it to “Using DHCP”

– then, in Safari, manually type the URL of any existing website that you do not often visit (e.g. the website of the city you live in) and see if it loads, to check if the WL0083 is properly configured as a WiFi-client on your network

– then disconnect the LogiLink WL0083’s ethernet and USB cable from your Mac

– so, go over to your BluRay player, and connect the LogiLink WL0083’s ethernet cable to it and connect the USB cable to a powered USB-port (or USB-poweradapter)

– now try and see if your BluRay player can use it’s internet services

– if your BluRay player needs any additional configuration, just set it to “ethernet” and “DHCP”

Enjoy !

Donate Button (MacManusNL)

Note #1 : the LogiLink WL0083 supports WiFi-N only at 150Mbps speed, even though the normal maximum speed of WiFi-N is 300Mbps (just like Apple’s implementation of WiFi-N in AirPort), most of the time you will probably not notice any decline in quality, but you might if you’re a heavy user…

Note #2 : if you want to adjust something small on your LogiLink WL0083 after you’ve configured it, you just need to temporarily switch your ethernet-connection from “Using DHCP” to “Using DHCP with manual address” and as the actual IP-address ; then you can login to the LogiLink web-interface at the URL (and do not forget to change back to “Using DHCP” afterwards)