fixed : Passpartout The Starving Artist game for iOS

Question :

My children have seen all the raving YouTube-reviews about the painting game Passpartout The Starving Artist by Flamebait Games. Now they want to play the game themselves, but they don’t have a Mac or a PC…

Is there a way to play Passpartout The Starving Artist on their iPad ?

 

Answer :

Yes, there is an official iOS-version of the Passpartout The Starving Artist game for sale on the iOS App Store :

Passpartout The Starving Artist for iOS

…so now you can play the game, and paint with more natural motions than you problably could on your Mac ¬†(especially if you have an iPad Pro with a stylus)

And you’re in luck : it runs not only on iPads, but on iPhones also ūüėČ

more exactly : it runs on iPhone 5s, iPhone 6 and newer, iPad mini 2 and newer, iPad Air & iPad Pro (and even iPod Touch 6th gen)

NOTE : if you are looking for Passpartout The Starving Artist for Mac, look here

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fixed : can’t delete unnamed app without icon from iPad

Question :

I have an icon on my iPad that has a generic icon and no name. If I double click it, the name turns into “Waiting…” and nothing happens, even after a long wait. If I try to delete it, I get the small X-tag, and if I click on it, I get a window saying :

Delete ‘ ¬†‘

Deleting ‘ ¬†‘¬†will also delete all of its data.

…and two options to click on : “Delete” and “Cancel”

…still no name of the app is given, and since the icon is generic (a.k.a. “empty” ; showing only a greyish-white icon with a dark grey grid, some circles and diagonals) I still don’t know how to delete it.

What can I do to fix this ?

 

Answer :

For some reason (unknown and probably irrelevant also) this app has stalled during an update or even during it’s initial install. To figure out the actual name of the app, do this :

  • in iOS, go to “Settings” –> “General” –> “Restrictions”, and make sure you have permission to delete apps and change accounts
  • then, go to “Settings” –> iTunes and App Store and log out
  • then,¬†when in iOS8, go to “Settings” –> “General” –> “Usage” –> “iCloud” –> “Manage Storage” ;¬†in the next window, click on¬†“Backups” ;¬†in the next window, click on “Show all apps”
  • or when in iOS9, go to “Settings” –> “General” –> “Storage & iCloud Usage” –> “STORAGE” –> “Manage Storage”
  • now find the app that has a generic icon in the list of apps you see
  • write down the name of that app (the one with the generic icon)
  • then, when the Menu-button has a white square icon on it, restart your iPad (or iPhone) by simultaneously pressing the Menu-button (below the screen) and the ON/OFF-button (on the right top edge of your iPad’s/iPhone’s housing, hold this key-combo until your iPad/iPhone shows a white¬†Apple-logo on a black screen, then release
  • or, when the Menu-button has fingerscan, restart your iPad (or iPhone) in the way described¬†in this post
  • when the reset is done, login to your iPad (or iPhone) if you have an access pincode on it
  • then, go to “Settings” –> iTunes and App Store and login
  • then,¬†when in iOS8,¬†go to “Settings” –> “General” –> “Usage” –> “iCloud” –> “Manage Storage” ;¬†in the next window, click on¬†“Backups” ;¬†in the next window, click on “Show all apps”
  • or¬†when in iOS9, go to “Settings” –> “General” –> “Storage & iCloud Usage” –> “STORAGE” –> “Manage Storage”
  • now find the app has still with the name that you wrote down (this app may or may not have a generic icon now) and click on it
  • in the next window click “Delete App”
  • then click the Menu-button to get back to the main screen
  • then go to¬†the “App Store”-app –> “Purchased” –> “Not on this iPad” (“Not on this iPhone”)
  • in the list, find the app with the name you wrote down and (re)download it from the App Store by clicking on the ‘cloud with blue downward arrow’-icon behind its name
  • when the app starts downloading, click on the Menu-button to return to the main screen
  • finally, turn restrictions back on if you had any initially (in “Settings” –> “General” –> “Restrictions”)

…that’s it – enjoy !

Donate Button (MacManusNL)

fixed : old hard reset procedure doesn’t work on new iPhones with finger scan

Question :

I just encountered an error (or bug) in iOS forcing me to do a hard reset on my iPhone, but when I try the good-old reset-procedure by pressing both the MENU- and POWER-button simultaneously, there’s no reset… just a click-sound and a screenshot photo being taken…

What’s going on ?

 

Answer :

For all iPhones (and iPads) that still have the MENU-button (*) without fingerscan [ so all iPhones up until and including the iPhone 5 and 5c ], the procedure for a hard reset is :

  • make sure you have the PIN-code of your SIM-card at hand
  • press and hold the MENU- and POWER-buttons (*) of your iPhone/iPad simultaneously until the entire screen turns black and the Apple logo reappears
  • then release both buttons and wait for the screen to go back to normal
  • and when asked, enter the PIN-code to unlock your SIM-card

…that’s it

For all iPhones that have the new fingerscanning MENU-button (*) [ so all iPhones starting from the iPhone 5s and iPhone 6 and newer ], the above procedure does no longer work, so there is a new procedure for a hard reset :

  • make sure you have the PIN-code of your SIM-card at hand
  • press and hold the POWER-button (*) until the screen goes fuzzy¬†and the ‘slide to power off’-slider appears
  • then release the POWER-button and slide the slider to the right to turn the iPhone off
  • wait for the screen to go black
  • then press and hold the POWER-button until the Apple logo (re)appears
  • then release the POWER-button and wait for the screen to go back to normal
  • and when asked, enter the PIN-code to unlock your SIM-card

UPDATE : since iOS 9.3 the ‘old’ procedure for a hard reset was re-introduced as an extra for the newer fingerscanning iPhones, so these can now also be reset by simultaneously pressing & holding the MENU- and POWER-buttons¬†

…that’s it

(*) the MENU-button is the button that is on the front side of your iPhone or iPad just below the screen :

  • on iPhones up until the iPhone 5 and 5c, the MENU-button has a ’rounded square’ icon on it
  • on iPhone 5s, iPhone 6 and newer, the MENU-button has no printing on it, but it has an (invisible) fingerscanning-sensor inside

…the POWER-button is the button that is used to turn the iPhone/iPad screen ON and OFF :

  • on iPhones up until the iPhone 5c and 5s, the POWER-button is on the top-side of the iPhone (just like it is on iPads)
  • on iPhone 6 and newer, the POWER-button is on the right-side of the iPhone

Donate Button (MacManusNL)

test : is the HEMA 8pin Lightning-to-USB cable Apple Certified ?

Question :

I saw this good looking Lightning-to-USB cable for iPhone and iPad at my local (Dutch) HEMA store : HEMA has named it “8pin USB Charging Cable – extra long (2m)”.

Since it only costs ‚ā¨4 it’s far cheaper to have around as an extra than the original Apple Lightning-to-USB cables. But I’ve purchased some third party and white label Lightning-to-USB cables previously, and most¬†cheaper ones all give the “This cable or accessory is not certified and may not work reliably with this iPhone.”-warning and I don’t want any new cables giving me that same error message.

How can I make sure that this HEMA Lightning-to-USB cable is ‘Apple Certified’ ?

Answer :

The HEMA Lightning-to-USB is available in various colors :

blue HEMA 8pin USB Charging Cable

orange HEMA 8pin USB Charging Cable

mint (pale green) HEMA 8pin USB Charging Cable

But there’s no way to be sure if it’s a 100% Apple Certified cable, since such a certification¬†is not explicitly mentioned on the box…

The only things that are mentioned on the box are :

– for use with iOS-devices running up to iOS 7.1

– supported iOS-devices include the iPhone 5/5C/5S, iPad & iPad mini Retina, iPad mini, iPad Air, iPod nano, iPod Touch

…so basically, it’s a cable suited for any iOS-device that doesn’t have the ‘old’ broad (30pin) iPod-connector but the new (8pin) Lightning-connector, which would include the iPhone 6 & 6Plus also…

And what about iOS-devices running iOS 8 ?

That’s a “you won’t know until¬†you try” situation :

From my own experience, I have not encountered the “This cable or accessory is not certified and may not work reliably with this iPhone.”-warning yet on these iOS-devices :

iPhone 5 (2012) & iOS 8.1

iPad mini (2012) & iOS 8.1

iPad mini 2 “Retina” (2013)¬†&¬†iOS 8.1

…that doesn’t mean that this cable will always be seen as a “Apple Certified”-cable at any time in the future however… there is mention that the “Not Certified”-warning did pop up in some situations, but the cause of those was not figured out… it might just have been an ill-produced sample, or it may have been¬†incompatibility with iOS 8.0 only for some reason (which was then fixed with the release of iOS 8.1).

Conclusion : at this ‚ā¨4 price tag, this is a handy Lightning-to-USB cable to have one or two around as an extra, but keep in mind that this cable might not stay supported by Apple in the long run.

Note : if your iPhone’s (or iPad’s) battery is completely exhausted and it shuts itself down because of ‘lack of power’, using this cable to recharge will take notably longer before ‘minimum level to operate’ is achieved (might even take up to 60 seconds as opposed to the regular 10¬†seconds), probably because this cable is significantly longer (200cm as opposed to the regular 100cm)

ūüėČ

Donate Button (MacManusNL)

test : Albert Heijn (a.k.a. iClever) Apple-imitation bluetooth keyboard

The official Apple Bluetooth keyboard looks really cool and works smoothly, but it’s expensive… a little too expensive for most purposes people say…

Of course there have been lots of alternative wireless keyboards available, but none really got the looks of a genuine Apple one (for some that is a must). That’s probably the reason why some unknown asian company has made an un-branded ‘white label’ all-plastic knock-off imitation which – at first glance – looks nearly identical to the aluminum Apple bluetooth keyboard. This imitation keyboard is available under a wide variety of brands, like the iClever-brand in most of the world, but for instance also under the dutch supermarket Albert Heijn’s own private label.

The iClever wireless keyboard can be purchased from Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk when you want a regular QWERTY-layout, and from Amazon.de if you want a german QWERTZ-layout.

Anyway, the main question is : is it any good ?

Simple answer : Yes, but…

Let me clarify : Yes, it’s a really nice keyboard to have and to use, with an interesting price tag below¬†‚ā¨ 25 (sometimes even in the ‚ā¨ 15 region). But it comes with a few flaws, so to quickly round up the verdict :

It’s an ideal low-budget wireless secondary keyboard for use with any Apple device that has a primary keyboard built-in.

To be more specific :

it’s a great¬†low-budget wireless keyboard for use with an AppleTV

it’s a very nice low-budget wireless keyboard for use with an iPad or iPhone (but there might be quite a few handier options, like a iPad-cover with built-in keyboard)

it’s a good low-budget secondary¬†keyboard for use with a MacBook (Air/Pro), for instance when your MacBook is closed and connected to a bigger screen

it’s a handy, but slightly tricky¬†keyboard for use with a Mac mini, iMac or Mac Pro (for these Macs I would advice to keep an¬†regular¬†USB-keyboard at hand for emergencies)

Why ?

NOTE (*) : the top-left key (the one with the open square) on this keyboard is the [HOME] key

– it doesn’t have an Escape (ESC) key, so when any program on your Mac hangs, you will not be able to Force Quit the application with this keyboard…

UPDATE (*) : to [ESC], use this key-combo : [FN] + [HOME]

so, to Force Quit, use this key-combo : [CMD] + [ALT] + [FN] + [HOME]

– it doesn’t have an Eject key for the DVD/CD-drive, so when this is your only keyboard, you will not be able to get any CD or DVD out of your Mac easily… you will need to do the annoying drag-to-the-trash move using your mouse each and every time…

UPDATE (*) : to Eject, use this key (not a key-combo) : [F5]

– it doesn’t have any option to set the (energy saving) auto-disconnect function to a longer interval… which means that when your Mac also goes into (energy saving) sleep mode, the ¬†keyboard has a lot of problems waking¬†your Mac… (e.g. you will need to press any button for a prolonged time, but doing so also makes your Mac see that as input for any application that was still open… you might mess up your open Word-document with an enormous line of spaces in doing so…)

UPDATE (*) : to Wake From Sleep, use this key (not a key combo) : [HOME]

– the keyboard is often recognized too late when starting up your Mac, so you can’t use it to type your password during login, so you can’t start using your Mac… this is possibly only a problem for older Macs and/or older versions of MacOSX, but still…

I have tested this keyboard with Apple devices only, so I can’t tell about the compatibility with other devices, but I would think it will be similar : good to great for use with smartphones and tablets running Android and Windows Mobile, but rather troublesome¬†for use with a Windows-PC…

ūüėČ

(*) special thanks to Arjan de Boer for these not-so-obvious, but very useful key-combos

fixed : photo delete-button greyed out on iPad

Question :

On my iPad, I want to free up some memory space by deleting some old photos, but when I go into the Photos-app, and select the photos I want to delete, the Delete-button is greyed out. At first I thought it might have something to do with restrictions I had set on my iPad, but I couldn’t find any restriction option regarding the deleting of of photos.

When I investigated a little further, it turns out that the Delete-button is available for my newest photos, but not for the older photos… that’s where things get confusing…

How can I make the Delete-option available for all photos ?

 

Answer :

The exact cause of your problem is not known, but the solution turns out to have something to do with photos that are supposed to be kept in-sync with your Mac (or PC).

The solution is the following :

– connect your iPad (or iPhone) to your Mac (or Windows-PC) using the USB-cable

[note : the computer you connect to should be the one that you have set as the primary computer to connect to when you originally set up your iPad/iPhone from iTunes on MacOSX or Windows]

– on your Mac or PC, open iTunes and go to the iPad/iPhone’s settings and click on the “Photos” tab

– if you’re on a Mac, make sure that there is NO¬†checkmark at “sync to folder” or “sync to iPhoto”

– if you’re on a Windows-PC, make sure there is NO checkmark at “sync to folder”

–¬†wait for the iTunes syncing proces to finish, then disconnect your iPad/iPhone

– when you open the Photos-app on your iPad/iPhone now, you will see that all photos now have the Delete-button available

That’s it !

Good Luck !

Enjoy !

ūüėČ

Donate Button (MacManusNL)

fixed : transfer “on my iPhone” notes to iCloud

Question :

I have notes on my iPhone (in the iOS Notes app), that I was expecting to show up on my Mac also (in the OSX Notes app) since I have both of them connected to iCloud, but only half of my notes seem to sync…

How can I get all of them to sync via iCloud ?

Answer :

When you are using iOS 7 (or iOS 8) and OSX 10.9 Mavericks (or OSX 10.10 Yosemite), you might have multiple accounts that are syncing their notes to Notes, not only through iCloud, but though other IMAP eMail-accounts as well…

Your best option probably is to transfer all your notes to iCloud and then only use iCloud to sync notes…

Here’s how to do that :

1- on your iPhone (or iPad) open the Notes app, and click on “Accounts” ; in the next window you’ll see multiple accounts listed

2- then, on your Mac, open the Notes app, and go to View –> Show Folders List ; if you click that, a menu pane called “All Notes” will open at the left of the Notes-window ; check to see if all those accounts match the ones listed on your iPhone

3- if they match, proceed to step 4 ; if not, go to Notes –> Accounts, and the ¬†“Internet Accounts” window from the System Preferences will open ; there, select the (eMail-) accounts of the missing accounts, an click them ; in the next window, make sure there’s a checkmark at “Notes” for each desired account

4- then, in the Notes.app in OSX, select each non-iCloud account from the menu on the left and click on “Notes” ; if any notes are listed there, select one of them and then type the CMD+A key-combo to select all of them and type the CMD+C key-combo to copy all

5- then, go to the iCloud Notes, and type the CMD+V key-combo to transfer these notes to iCloud

6- repeat this copy process for all accounts listed, until all notes are copied to iCloud

7- only when you’ve double-checked that all notes are now in iCloud (also), delete the ones in the other accounts (and/or disable the accounts on your Mac)

8- then, on your iPhone (where the Accounts pages of the Notes.app is still open), select “On My iPhone” and on the next page, click each note to open the note, and copy it into a new note (to do so, go to iCloud –> Notes ; then create a new note ¬†by clicking the +-button, and copy the info that new note) ; repeat this until all notes are now visible in iCloud –> Notes

9- Now, check on your Mac and iPhone, to make sure that all messages are now in the iCloud account

that should be it…

enjoy !