Tag Archives: USB

fixed : CarPlay option not available on iPhone

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Question :

My car doesn’t have buit-in navigation, but the onboard system supports Apple CarPlay. I have connected my iPhone to my car both through USB and Bluetooth, but my car only connects to my iPhone for Contacts and telephone… I can’t get access to my iPhone apps like navigation…

I have looked up info on CarPlay online, and it is said everywhere that there should be a CarPlay option in the General.app listed in the same chapter containing AirDrop, AirPlay&Handoff and Picture-in-Picture… immediately below those Picture-in-Picture… but there is none…

My iPhone is just over a year old and I am running the latest version of iOS, so that shouldn’t be a problem, especially since my friend’s iPhone 6S immediately connects to my car’s CarPlay when he plugs in the lightning-to-USB-cable…

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

If you have Siri turned off, the CarPlay option won’t show.

So, to fix your problem, do this :

  • on your iPhone, goto the Settings.app > Siri & Search (in the same chapter as General, Control Center and Display&Brightness, just below Wallpaper) > switch ON “Allow Siri When Locked” and preferably also “Listen for Hey Siri” and/or “Press Side Button for Siri”
  • then turn Bluetooth OFF and back ON on your iPhone
  • then turn WiFi OFF and back ON on your iPhone
  • then goto the Settings.app > General > CarPlay
  • if CarPlay isn’t listed, just wait a few minutes or restart your iPhone
    • press&hold the ON/OFF-button and the VolumeUP-button simultaneously until the “Slide to power off” slider appears
    • then slide the PowerOFF-slider so the screen goes black
    • then press&hold the ON/OFF-button until the Apple logo appears and your iPhone restarts and says you SIM must be unlocked
    • then touch the screen and typ your screen unlock code (6 digits) in the first (black) screen
    • then typ your SIM unlock code (4 digits) in the second (white) screen
  • then, again, goto the Settings.app > General and check if CarPlay is now listed
    • if CarPlay still isn’t listed, repeat the entire process
  • now reconnect your iPhone to your car using the Lighting-to-USB-cable and your car’s display will now be able to show your iPhone’s apps also
    • if the app you want to use isn’t listed, goto Settings.app > General > CarPlay and make sure that you add all apps that you would like to use
    • if no apps are available on your car’s display, use another Lightning-to-USB-cable

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

 

 

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fixed : Canon scanner “Cannot communicate with scanner” error in macOS 10.15 Catalina

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Question :

I have been using my Canon CanoScan 5600F scanner for many years with my Mac, and it has always been working great. However : now, in macOS 10.15 Catalina I keep getting error messages that the scanner cannot be found…

The exact error message is this : “Scanner reported an error Cannot communicate with scanner for these reasons: – Scanner is turned off. – USB cable is disconnected. Please check and try again.”

Sometimes I manage to get things working by replugging the USB-cable and switching the scanner OFF and back ON, but that solution doesn’t last…

What can I do to solve this ?

 

Answer :

even though Canon does not list support for your the CanoScan 5600F for macOS 10.15 Catalina, the Canon driver that used to work in MacOSX 10.7 Lion through macOS 10.14 Mojave still works in macOS 10.15 Catalina, so if you do not have this driver already, download it here

NOTE : this solution is tested to work for the Canon CanoScan 5600F scanner, but will probably work as well for other CanoScan and LiDE scanners that run into the same problem and error message

To solve your problem, do this :

  • go to Apple-icon (top left in the menu bar) and click on “System Preferences” from the pulldown menu
  • in the “System Preferences” window, click on “Printers & Scanners”
  • in the list on the left, at “Scanners”, select your CanoScan scanner
  • then, click on the Minus-button at the bottom of the list on the left, to delete the scanner from the list
  • now, switch OFF your scanner and unplug the USB-cable from the scanner and from your Mac
  • then, go to Apple-icon (top left in the menu bar) and click on “Restart…” from the pulldown menu
  • when prompted, UNcheck the option to reopen all open windows and restart your Mac
  • then, plug the USB-cable back into your scanner and your Mac and switch your scanner back ON
  • when your Mac has restarted, open System Preferences
  • in the “System Preferences” window, click on “Printers & Scanners”
  • in the list on the left, at the bottom, click on the Plus-button
  • in the window that opens, select your CanoScan scanner from the list and click the “Add”-button
  • you can now select your CanoScan scanner from the list on the left and click on the “Open Scanner” button on the right to open it
  • now, the “Scanner” window will open and you will be able to scan

You could be okay now, but you still might encounter this ‘Cannot communicate with scanner’ error again… in that case, do this :

  • click the OK button in the pulldown window that reports the error
  • then, option-click (right-click) on the scanner icon in the Dock
  • if your Scanner icon is not always visible in the Dock, do this first :
    • in the popup-list, select “Options”
    • in the next popup-list, make sure that there is a checkmark at “Keep in Dock”
  • now, close the Scanner window by clicking on the red button top left
  • then, reopen the Scanner window (by clicking on the scanner icon in the Dock)
  • now, the Overview Scan (preview scan) will start automatically as expected
  • if not, just repeat this process a little slower than you did before 😉

Note 1 : it seems like this problem is caused by macOS 10.15 Catalina cutting off all USB-connected devices when it puts your Mac in sleep mode (at the moment of writing there seems to be no simple way to adjust this in macOS…)

Note 2 : if you cannot live with getting this error once in a while, and you cannot wait for Apple and/or Canon to come up with a definite solution… have a look at the VueScan scanner-app

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : Ethernet cable connection on USB-C only MacBook Pro

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Question :

I just bought a new MacBook Pro that has USB-C only (and WiFi & Bluetooth), nothing else… I would like to hook it up to an Ethernet-cable since I’ve heard that’s better than WiFi when playing games like Fortnite…

How do I do that ?

 

Answer :

To connect your MacBook to Ethernet using a UTP-cable, you need to have an adapter. You could use an USB-to-Ethernet-connector that you might have laying around and connect it to your MacBook using a cheap USB-to-USB-C-connector that you can get at a supermarket or discount-shop… but I would advise against that : all cheap USB-to-USB-C-connectors are USB2-only (because they are mainly for connecting USB-mouses and keyboards to modern computers)… and a lot of USB-to-Ethernet-connectors are 10/100-Ethernet compatible and USB2-only… but even if you have a USB3-to-Gigabit-Ethernet, the end result will be just USB2…

To get the best out of your MacBook, you should get a USB-C-to-Ethernet-connector that is Thunderbolt 3 compatible, like this one :

Thunderbolt 3 USB-C to Gigabit Ethernet connector (buy on Amazon US) (buy on Amazon UK) (buy on Amazon DE)

 

enjoy 😉

 

fixed : where to get an OSX driver for Griffin iMate USB to ADB adapter

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Question :

I came across an old Mac gamepad that has an ADB (Apple Desktop Bus) connector and I was wondering if it would be possible to use it with my current Mac.

I also found a ‘Griffin iMate USB to ADB adapter’ that enables me to connect the gamepad to my USB-port. Unfortunately, when I connect it, only the joystick directions work, but not the buttons.

Is there anywhere I can get drivers for the Griffin iMate that would work for OSX ?

 

Answer :

Luckily, the WaybackMachine has a rather good backup off the original Griffin website, and most downloads still work. You can find it here :

Griffin iMate Software @WaybackMachine

This includes iMate-drivers for both MacOS9 and MacOSX (both support MacOSX Classic mode, which is MacOS9 running from inside MacOSX).

for MacOS9 driver version 2.7 and earlier versions are available

for MacOSX driver version 1.5.2 and 1.5.3beta are available

Since these are really old drivers, you will have to try if you can still run in your recent version of OSX / macOS.

If they don’t run, you might even be able to use the iMate OS X SDK (Software Development Kit) to create your own 😉

For Windows PCs there are no drivers needed, but keyboards, mice with extended functions will only be partially supported.

enjoy !

fixed : USB-to-Ethernet-adapter not working on Nintendo Switch

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Question :

I would prefer to connect our new Nintendo Switch gaming console to the Internet using a cable, as I did with our Nintendo Wii-U. But the USB-to-Ethernet-adapter that was working perfectly on our Wii-U isn’t even recognized by the new Nintendo Switch.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

There are 2 sides to this problem, and you might even have to take care of both :

-1-

To use a wired ethernet-connection on the Nintendo Switch, you need to keep the Switch tablet inside the base station. If the tablet isn’t inside the base station, the Switch can’t access the wired ethernet-connection, as there is no wireless connection between the tablet and the base station. Even when docked in the base station, it is the Switch tablet that connects to WiFi directly. There is no WiFi-module inside the base station.

So, follow these steps to get it to work :

  • open the lid on the back of the base station and unplug the power adapter-cable
  • make sure the ethernet-cable is connected to your modem router
  • plug the ethernet-cable into your USB-to-Ethernet-adapter
  • plug the USB-to-Ethernet-adapter into the base station (preferably the USB-port under the lid on the back, as that is a USB3-port)
  • then replug the power adapter-cable into the base station and close the lid
  • then put the Switch tablet into the base station and turn on your TV
  • Go to Settings, then Internet, then Test Connection
  • If the info listed says “Wired Connection” you’re okay and your Internet connection speed will be displayed in a few seconds
  • If not, repeat the above steps and make sure all cables are plugged in properly

-2-

The Nintendo Switch gaming console will only accept USB-to-Ethernet-adapters that are based on the ASIX AX88179 chipset. The only officially supported USB-to-Ethernet-adapter is the Hori NSW-004U Switch LAN Adapter, but any adapter based on the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work perfectly.

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.com here

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.co.uk here

buy the officially supported Hori Switch LAN Adapter on Amazon.de here

Or you can spare yourself some money by buying one of these (note that these are all USB3, which makes them a cheaper and faster alternative to the Hori-adapter that is only USB2) :

buy the alternatively TRENDnet USB3 Wired Network Adapter on Amazon.com here

buy the alternatively uGREEN USB3 Gigabit Network Adapter on Amazon.co.uk here

buy the alternatively Plugable USB3-E1000 Adapter on Amazon.de here

 

enjoy 😉

fixed : use one printer in two networks at the same time

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Question :

I have a network printer on my (private) network that I would like to make available to the people on my AirPort Guest Network, but I don’t want guests to access my private network.

Is there a way to do this ?

 

Answer :

There are options to do this, but it can’t be done the way you would find most elegant probably… the problem is the restriction in AirPort Guest Networks that users can’t connect to each other, so adding the printer to the AirPort Guest Network won’t make it available to any AirPort Guest Network user.

On the other hand, an other restriction on most network printers is that they only have one Ethernet-card that is shared between the UTP-cable port and the WiFi connection, so the cable-connection and the WiFi-connection will always have the same IP-address, making it impossible to connect the cable to your private network and joining the Guest Network using the WiFi-connection at the same time…

Your best option is to connect the Ethernet/UTP-cable and/or the printer’s WiFi to your private network and creating a separate network to be used as a Guest Network to which the printer can be connected using it’s USB-cable. Since you will need an extra wireless router or an extra (secondhand) AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule to create this separate Guest Network, you can plug the printer’s USB-cable into that wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule.

You could also use a printer server, if it isn’t possible to connect the printer’s USB-cable into the wireless router / AirPort Base Station / Time Capsule. You can find relatively cheap print servers on Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Regarding the setup of your networks, you will probably be best off doing it like this :

  • set your internet modem in router mode (if you would set it in bridge mode, you wouldn’t be able to connect two separate networks behind it)
  • connect both routers (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to the internet modem
  • setup one router (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the private network and private WiFi network
  • setup the other router (or AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule) to create the Guest Network and Guest WiFi Network
  • make sure that the IP-ranges issued by both routers are completely different (to prevent easy connection from the Guest Network to your private network (and the other way around)
  • if any of your routers give a “Double NAT” error, just ignore it

That’s it !

the only downsite is that having such a complex network setup with multiple routers will have negative influence on your (internet) connection speed ; this difference in speed will probably not be very big if you have few devices connected, but if you have a lot of devices connected that also use a lot of bandwidth (like video streaming) you will probably have slower internet speed than you used to…

enjoy !

fixed : MacBook’s external monitor screen stays black

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Question :

In my office, I am using an external monitor as my main screen for my MacBook Pro. Today, the screen didn’t respond when I connected my MacBook however : the screen stays black and nothing appears on-screen. So I opened up my MacBook and used the built-in screen to figure out what’s wrong, but so far I haven’t found any indication in the Displays Preference Panel that my MacBook even detects the second screen…

What can I do ?

 

Answer :

In such situations you should always do this first :

Remedy #1 :

  • if you are using a MacBook, MacBook Air or MacBook Pro, make sure you have the power adapter connected
  • if your laptop is on battery power, the external screen will go black whenever you close the lid of your laptop (when on battery power, all connections are powered off when you close the lid to save energy)

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #2

Remedy #2 :

  • make sure your monitor is switched ON
  • then hit the SPACE-bar on your external keyboard several times (maybe once, usually about 5 to 10 times…)
  • the monitor should now appear and show the inlog panel to unlock your screensaver
  • then login

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #3

NOTE : if you have a Benq monitor (especially the BL2420TP), try this first :

fixed : Benq monitor stays black when MacBook is switched on

Remedy #3 :

  • unplug all cables between the monitor and your Mac ( DisplayPort / Thunderbolt / HDMI / DVI / VGA  and also USB, UTP, FireWire and PowerAdapter )
  • shut down your monitor
  • shut down your MacBook
  • reconnect all cables and double-check if they’re properly connected on both the Mac and the monitor
  • switch on your MacBook
  • switch on your monitor

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #4

Remedy #4 :

  • on your MacBook, open Apple [main menu bar top-left] –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is no “Gather Windows” button, press the ALT-key on your keyboard and a button marked “Detect Displays” appears ; click on it when it appears

if this works, you’re good, if not, try Remedy #5

Remedy #5 :

  • on your MacBook, open Apple [main menu bar top-left] –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is a “Gather Windows” button, click on it
  • then you will see 2 Display Preference windows on your MacBook screen
  • select the Display Preference window that has 3 tabs on it marked “Display”, “Arrangement” and “Color” (not the window that has “Display” and “Color” only)
  • first, press the ALT-key on your keyboard and a button marked “Detect Displays” appears where the “Gather Windows”-button used to be ; click on it when it appears
  • if your monitor switches on, you’re good, if not…
  • click on the “Arrangement”-tab and in the next window put a checkmark at “Mirror Display”
  • if your monitor switches on now, uncheck the “Mirror Display” option again and close your MacBook… you should be good now…

if this didn’t work, try Remedy #6

Remedy #6 :

  • unplug all cables between the monitor and your Mac ( DisplayPort / Thunderbolt / HDMI / DVI / VGA  and also USB, UTP, FireWire and PowerAdapter )
  • shut down your monitor
  • shut down your MacBook
  • reconnect your Mac to your monitor using a different type of cable then you normally would choose (e.g. if you normally use a DisplayPort/Thunderbolt-cable, use an HDMI or DVI cable now)
  • switch on your MacBook
  • switch on your monitor
  • if your monitor wakes from sleep now, open Apple –> System Preferences
  • in the System Preferences window, select “Displays”
  • in the Display Preferences window, see if there is a button marked “Gather Windows” bottom right
  • if there is a “Gather Windows” button, click on it
  • then you will see 2 Display Preference windows on your MacBook screen
  • now, remove the monitor-cable that you have just used to connect your MacBook to your monitor
  • then, reconnect your MacBook to your monitor using all cables you normally use to connect the two
  • if your monitor now wakes from sleep, you’re good
  • if it doesn’t, restart your monitor
  • it that doesn’t help, restart your Mac

normally your issue should be resolved by now…

if still the monitor stays showing a back screen, I’m sorry to inform you that your screen probably has a hardware problem… if so, get an authorized Mac-repair-centre to fix it, get the Apple Store support-crew to fix this…

that’s it !

enjoy 😉