M4 Mac handle simultaneously ?

Posted on 29-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
I have an M3 MacBook that I would like to use with 2 external 4K monitors for my work setup, so I bought an extra 4K monitor, but when I tried to connect it to my MacBook, it didn’t work… What is wrong ?

How many displays can I connect to my M3 MacBook simultaneously ?

Answer :
There are hardware limitations to how many additional screens you can connect to a Silicon (M1/M2/M3/M4) Mac, and they are not the same for the basic M-version, the Pro-version and the Max-version. Actually, it’s quite confusing, because there’s also variation in what you can connect using either Thunderbolt or HDMI. Please find the number of external screens you can connect in the tables below [ warning ! the below may contain typos, do doublecheck on the official Apple website ] :

4K-resolution	over Thunderbolt only	over Thunderbolt + HDMI
M1	+1	+1
M1 Pro	+3	+3
M1 Max	+3	+4
M2	+1	+1
M2 Pro	+2	+2
M2 Max	+3	+4
M3	+2 (but only with lid closed)	+2 (but only with lid closed)
M3 Pro	+2	+2
M3 Max	+3	+4
M4	+2	+2
M4 Pro	+2	+2
M4 Max	+4	+4

6K-resolution	over Thunderbolt only	over Thunderbolt + HDMI
M1	+1	+1
M1 Pro	+2	+2
M1 Max	+3	+3
M2	+1	+1
M2 Pro	+2	+2 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M2 Max	+3	+4 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M3	+2 (but 2nd max. 5K)	+2 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M3 Pro	+2	+2 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M3 Max	+3	+4 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M4	+2	+2 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M4 Pro	+2	+2 (but HDMI max. 4K)
M4 Max	+4 (daisy chaining needed)	+4 (but HDMI max. 4K)

8K-resolution	over Thunderbolt	over Thunderbolt + HDMI
M1	not possible	not possible
M1 Pro	not possible	not possible
M1 Max	not possible	not possible
M2	not possible	not possible
M2 Pro	not possible	+1 (over HDMI only)
M2 Max	not possible	+1 (over HDMI only)
M3	not possible	not possible
M3 Pro	not possible	+1 (over HDMI only)
M3 Max	not possible	+1 (over HDMI only)
M4	+1	+1
M4 Pro	+1	+1
M4 Max	+2	+2

so… generally, all M1/M2/M3/M4 Macs can support at least one external 4K (or even 6K) screen, but if you want connect multiple external screens to your MacBook, you are probably goning to need a multi-monitor-hub, like the BenQ beCreatus DP1310 docking station.

The BenQ beCreatus DP1310 docking station will enable every silicon (M1/M2/M3/M4) MacBook to connect over USB-C to up to 3 external 4K screens (2 over HDMI and the 3rd over DP/DisplayPort).

The regular price of the DP1310 Dock is ca. €300, so check out below if you can get a better price on Amazon [we get a tiny fee if you buy anything using these links, but you will not be paying anything extra] :

BenQ beCreatus DP1310 dock on Amazon US
BenQ beCreatus DP1310 dock on Amazon UK
BenQ beCreatus DP1310 dock on Amazon DE

enjoy 😉

fixed : Power Pete / Mighty Mike game for current macOS

Posted on 28-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
My kids asked me which computer games I liked to play when I was their age. I said I was most fond of an arcade game of a cartoonish Rambo-guy in camo clothes who fought dinosaurs trying to rescue little bunnies, using various cartoon-guns like a whipped cream shooter… I think it was called Peter Power or something… I would love to show the game to my kids (and play it myself once again)… but if I remember correctly it was no longer playable when OSX abandoned the Calssic mode…

Is there any way to let my kids play it themselves ?

Answer :
Yes, there is.
The game is called Power Pete (released by MacPlay) and was Best Arcade Game of 1995.
The origanal developer Pangea Software re-released the game in 2001 as Mighty Mike.
And recently, Pangea has granted a developer known as Illiyas Jorio the honours of releasing a FREE version of the game that works on all recent computers running current-day versions of macOS, Windows and Linux.
The current version of Mighty Mike can be found on GitHub. The download link is provided on the Pangea website :

Mighty Mike by Pangea Software

Even though Pangea Software’s website states that Jorio’s version of the game will work on “Mac OS X and 11” (probably refering to all Mac OSX 10.x versions up to macOS 11 Big_Sur from 2020) the latest release on GitHub (Mighty Mike 3.0.2) is even playable on the current version of macOS (macOS 15 Sequoia) and not only on Intel-based Macs, but also on the current Silicon-based M1/M2/M3/M4 Macs.

Just keep in mind that the graphics haven’t been updated, so you will get that pixelated retro-feel also… and you can still adjust the settings to play it with a joypad or game controller instead of your keyboard.

Enjoy 😉

fixed : Mac’s internal storage nearly full due to iOS Files

Posted on 21-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
My Mac is slow, and I can’t install updates anymore… I found out, by looking in Settings > General > Storage, that I only have about 5 GB of free space… and after the waiting for the internal storage volume bar to color up and indicate which types of files take up most space, I found out (by clicking on it) that the Applications have two sections : not only Applications (which are the installed macOS Applications I presume), but also something called “iOS Files” which take up about 45 GB…

What are those iOS Files ? and can I delete them to free up memory space ?

Answer :
Yes, it can be a good idea to free up some free space on the internal memory of your Mac by deleting those iOS Files. They are in fact backups of your iPhone(s), which you don’t need on your Mac if your iPhone is being backed up to iCloud.
Basically there are 2 ways of deleting these iOS Files from your Mac, one is deleting them without connecting your iPhone to your Mac, the other is a way that requires your to connect your iPhone. But if you have so little free space left (only a few GBs) you will need to combine the two to solve your problem :

first, make sure your iPhone is being backed up to iCloud, so open your iPhone
then, open the Settings.app
in the Settings window that opens, click on your Account ( your Own Name )
in the Account window that opens, click on iCloud
in the iCloud window, go to the “Saved to iCloud” chapter and click on “See All”
in the Saved to iCloud window, make sure taht everything that you want to include in your backups turned ON
then, go back into the iCloud window, go to the “iCloud Backup” chapter and click on it
in the iCloud Backup window that opens, make sure that “Back Up This iPhone” is switched ON
then, click “Back Up Now”
when the backup is finished, go to your Mac
on your Mac, open the Finder.app
when the Finder window is open, press the [CMD]+{SHIFT]+[G] key combo on your keyboard
in the search window that opens, in the search field, typ the following :
~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup
then press Enter
in the Finder window that opens you will see a folder named Backup
drag&drop that Backup folder onto your Trash
then, empty the Trash
when warned that some files can’t be deleted, just continue
when the emptying has finished, open the Trash and drag the Backup folder back into the location that it used to be in ( which is in the MobileSync folder inside the Application Support folder )
now your Mac should have a lot more memory space freed up, but you’re not finished yet
now, connect your iPhone to your Mac using a USB or USB-C cable
on your Mac allow “trust this computer’, and unlock your iPhone by using your unlock passcode or face-recognition
NOTE : if you get a warning that a software update is needed for your Mac to recognise your iPhone, install that update first
now, your iPhone will appear in the sidebar of the Finder
when your iPhone shows up, click on it
in the iPhone’s settings window that opens, click on the General tab
then, in the General tab, in the Backups chapter, choose “Backup your most important data on your iPhone to iCloud”
then, go on to the Options chapter, make sure that only “Manually manage music, movies and TV shows” is checked and click the Apply button
then, exit the iPhone in the Finder and unplug the iPhone’s cable from your Mac
now, open the Finder.app again and press the [CMD]+{SHIFT]+[G]
in the search filed that opens, again, typ the following :
~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup
and press Enter
now, in the window that opens, click on the Backup folder
when the Backup folder opens, drag&drop all it’s contents ( usually only one folder with an unpronounceable name ) to the Trash
then empty the Trash
and close the Finder.app
That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : Synology and WD MyCloud NAS connection problems on my TP-Link Deco network

Posted on 13-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
I have a local WiFi and Ethernet/UTP network that has a TP-Link Deco X60 acting as the DCHP router. In that network I have a Synology DS 218 NAS and a WD MyCloud Home. All this used to work great, but even though I can see both both the Synology and the MyCloud under the Network chapter in the Finder of macOS, both have severe connection problems. Sometimes it is possibel to get connection for a few minutes, but most of the time both the synology and the MyCloud are unreachable. Even using the SynologyAssistant.app the Synology NAS can’t be found. On the other hand, the lights on the Synology and the MyCloud are burning, the Ethernet/UTP-cables are plugged in correctly…
On the other hand, my Apple AirPort Time Capsule is connectable without problems.

What can I do to make my NAS available in my network ?

Answer :
Eventhough there can hardware problems that cause this, it is usually a software problem.
Since you have a TP-Link Deco router, it is possibly a bug introduced in a new version of the firmware. Do this to fix it :

make sure all your network devices that you want to cable connect are connected to your network with a Ethernet/UTP cable
first, go to your main TP-Link Deco router
disconnect the power from the main Deco router
then make sure that the Ethernet/UTP cable from port 2 is directly plugged into your internet modem, and the Ethernet/UTP cable from port 1 is connected to the Ethernet/UTP-switch that all other Ethernet-devices are connected to
then plug the power cable back into your main Deco router and wait until it’s light turns green
then, on your Mac, open a new Finder window and click on “Network” in the menu list on the left
then, in the window that opens, click on your Synology NAS’ name, and you’ll see “connecting…” that will turn into “connected as:…” and you will see the folders that are on your NAS
this means that your Synology NAS is now available in your network
to check this, open the Synology Assistant app and click “Search”
when your NAS appears in the list, select it and click “Connect”
then the web-based interface opens in your browser login using the you NAS account name and password
when the web interface shows the vritual desktop – your done 😉
to check your WD MyCloud, open the finder once again and click “Network” once again
now, click on “MyCloud” and wait for macOS to connect
the Finder will then show all files that are on the WD MyCloud
That’s it !

enjoy 😉

tip : view today and tomorrow (2 days) at the same time in your iPhone calendar

Posted on 12-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Since the introduction of iOS 18, there is a new button in your iPhone calendar :
you can now get a better overview of your week while in your day-view !

To get 2 days (e.g. today and tomorrow) on your screen side-by-side, do this :

open your Calendar on your iPhone
when the YEAR calendar view, click on the ‘Today’ button (bottom left)
when the MONTH calendar view opens, click on the ‘Today’ button (bottom left) – again
when in the DAY calendar view, click on the odd-shaped button in the top-bar (on the left of the Search / Looking Glass button)
in the pull-down list that appears, select “Multi Day”
click outside the pull-down list to close it
now, you can see 2 days (e.g. today and tomorrow) next to each other and you can scroll through your week using the weekday bar at the top

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : Synology NAS no longer accessible because Secure SignIn app was offloaded from iPhone

Posted on 12-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
I want to access my Synology DS218 NAS because I got an eMail from Synology that there is a new system update available, but when trying to login I need the Synology Secure SignIn app on my iPhone. But I haven’t used the app for a while, and now it turns out it has been offloaded by iOS. I’ve re-installed the app, but now my entire account has been erased and syncronisation with my NAS is no longer possible.
I tried to setup my account in the Secure SignIn again, but when trying to do so, I get caught in a loop… I need an access to the app to login to the NAS’ virtual desktop interface… and I need access to my NAS’ virtual desktop interface to setup an account in the Secure SignIn app…

What can I do ?

Answer :
Even though you are caught in a loop, there is a way to get out of this… but it involves a rather rigorous reset… to do so, do this :

make sure you have the Synology Secure SignIn app on your iPhone (you can download it from the AppleStore – there are versions for iOS/iPhone and iPadOS/iPad)
make sure you have SynologyAssistiant.app on your Mac (you can download it from the Synology Download Center – search based on the model of your NAS)
find the tiny button marked RESET (on the back of your NAS)
use a paperclip, ballpoint-tip or something alike to press & hold the RESET button for 4 seconds, until you hear a beep
immediately release the button when you hear the beep
you have now reset the network settings of your NAS, removed the 2-factor authentication and reset the password to blank (but all data on your NAS will remain intact)
now plug the UTP/Ethernet-cable from your NAS straight into your Mac
temporarily switch off WiFi on your Mac (and disconnect all other network & internet connections)
then, open the SynologyAssistant.app on your Mac
when the screen opens, click on “Search”
when your NAS appears in the list of found devices, click on “Connect”
now your webbrowser (Safari) opens
on the first screen, when your account name is asked, type : admin
then click the blue NEXT button
on the second screen, leave the password field blank and click the blue NEXT button
when prompted to enable 2-factor authentication, click “No, thanks”
when prompted to set up adaptive MFA, click “I don’t want to secure my account”
when the recommendation and question if you are sure to proceed appear, klick the blue OK button
now the Reset Password page opens, set the account name you want to use (if you want, you can use your previous account name)
now, if you click at the upper new password field, you will probably be recommended to use a Safari Strong Password, if so, click OK (if no password is suggested, set a long password manually)
make sure you write down this password offline (or somewhere very secure)
then, make sure the chosen password is the same in both fields and clcik OK
when you get the “Success! Your password has been changed.” message, click the “Sign In Now” button
then, you will need to log-in again on your NAS, this time with your new password
if you get a message saying “password invalid” you can ignore it and try again (usually the second time it will just work anyway)
when the webinterface opens, click on your account info (blue person icon) top right
from the pulldown menu, choose “Personal”
when the “Personal” settings window opens, click on the “Security” tab
in the “Security” tab window that opens, select “2-Factor Authentication” and click the blue Apply button
in the pop-up window that opens, choose “Verification code (OTP)”
then put your Synology NAS (a.k.a. “DSM”) account password in the next pop-up window and click the blue OK-button
the next pop-up window advises to download the Secure SignIn app, but since you’ve already done so, just click the blue Next-button
in the next pop-up window you will see a QR-code
now, open the Secure SignIn app on your iPhone and click the OTP-button (bottom-right)
when the OTP-window opens on your iPhone, click the + button top right
then your camera will open within the Secure SignIn app
now, using your iPhone, scan the QR-code that is displayed on your Mac
then, a 6-digit code will be generated on your iPhone
key in that 6-digit code into the “Verification Code (OTP)” field on your Mac and click the blue Next-button
in the “Backup email settings” window that opens (on your Mac) check that your account eMail address is also listed as your Backup eMail address, and verify your eMail address if you haven’t done that already
if “Send verification email” is greyed out and “Verified” is indicated next to it in green, you can click the blue Next-button
in the next window, click the blue Next-button
now, your NAS has been successfully re-linked with the app, so you can close the “Personal” window by clicking the X button (top right inside the window)
when done, in the online virtual desktop (which is still open on your Mac), click the Control Panel icon
in the “Control Panel” window that opens, click “Regional Options” (in the “System” chapter)
in the next window, make sure the “Time” tab is selected (usually the “Time” tab will be already displayed automatically)
then make sure that “Synchronize with NTP Server” is selected in the “Time Setting” chapter
at “Server address:” select “time.google.com” and click the ‘Update Now’-button
even if it says “Status: Checking…” or “cannot connect” you can now click the blue ‘Apply’-button
Note : keep in mind that the codes generated by the Secure SignIn app are time-sensitive, so it is essential that the time set in your NAS is correct and keeps getting updated
you can now close the NAS’ vritual desktop in your browser
now, reconnect the UTP/Ethernet cables from your NAS and your Mac in the way they used to be before your problems occurred (so both your Mac and your NAS will have internet connection)
then, on your Mac, reopen the SynologyAssistant.app
maybe you need to click the ‘Search’-button, but ususally your NAS will already be listed
select your NAS from the list and click the ‘Connect’-button
now, your NAS’ login page will open in your browser
on the first page key in your Synology NAS account name
on the second page, key in your password and put a checkmark at “do not ask again on this device”
on the thrird page, key in the 6-digit OTP code that is shown in the Secure SignIn app on your iPhone
now your NAS’ virtual desktop will open in your browser
there, click on the Control Panel icon
open “Regional Options” again
in the “Time” tab, check that the current time is displayed, that the ’Time Setting’ is on ’Syncronize with NTP Server’ and that ‘Status:’ is at “Normal” (in green)
if not, adjust these settings and click ‘Update Now’
else, close the NAS’ virtual desktop
That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : Nokia glass fiber modem all lights flashing but no internet

Posted on 11-12-2024 by MacManus.nl

Question :
I have no internet signal on my Nokia XS-2426G-B glass fiber modem. Only the power light was flashing when I first discovered the problem. So I restarted the modem by taking out the power cable for at least 30 seconds and plugged it back in, but that did not resolve the problem. Now, all lights are flashing, and they keep flashing, there’s no progression in any way… Trying yet another restart by temprotarily disconnecting the power doesn’t change anything… All light keep flashing and noting happens, the internet doesn’t come back on…

What can I do ?

Answer :

The flashing of all lights indicates that the power adapter is broken. The obvious way to fis this is by contacting your glass fiber internet provider and asking for a power adapter replacement. But that will resolve your problem very quickly, as it will take a few days for you to receive the part, and that isn’t going to get you back online as soon as possible…

The quickest way to fix this is to find another power adapter with similar specs and get your modem the power it needs to reconnect to the internet.

The specs for the power adapter are :
output : 12V DC 3A
connector : 5.5 * 2.5mm tip (tube shaped)
polarity : inner centre positive (+) and negative (-) on the outside

So to resolve your problem, do this :
-1- contact your glass fiber internet provider and order a new (original) power adapter ; ask how long it will take for you to receive it and choose one of the following to save you in the mean time :
-2A- see if you have a 12V DC adapter with a 5.5 * 2.5mm inner centre posisitve tip and at least 3.0A lying around that you can temporarily use
-2B- if you don’t have one lying around and you need to get back online a.s.a.p., go to your local electronics shop or DIY shop or hardware store and get yourself a universal 12V DC power adapter that can be adjusted to 3.0A and can be fitted with a 5.5 * 2.5mm inner centre positive tip
-2C- if you can do without cabled internet (e.g. because you can do with 5G mobile telephone internet) for about 24 hours and you want a cheaper 12V DC power adapter, buy one online with overnight delivery and make sure it meets the above mentioned specs.

On Amazon you can get several power adapters that will do the job :
[ we get a fee if you buy on amazon using these links ]
on amazon.com : multi-purpose 12V DC Power Adapter max 3A
on amazon.co.uk : multi-purpose 12V DC Power Adapter max 3A
on amazon.de : multi-purpose 12V DC Power Adapter max 3A

So, once you receive the official/original power adapter from your glass fiber internet provider you can use that one, and you can keep the other adapter as a spare in case of emergency.

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

MacManus.nl

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Monthly Archives: December 2024

fixed : how many 4K screens can my M1/M2/M3/M4 Mac handle simultaneously ?

fixed : Power Pete / Mighty Mike game for current macOS

fixed : Mac’s internal storage nearly full due to iOS Files

fixed : Synology and WD MyCloud NAS connection problems on my TP-Link Deco network

fixed : Nokia glass fiber modem all lights flashing but no internet

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