fixed : Storage Full error warning on AppleWatch 3

Question :

I have an AppleWatch 3 (or Series 3 as it is officially called) and a few days ago, an warning message popped up saying there its memory is full.

The warning reeds :
Storage Full Try removing music or photos using the AppleWatch app on iPhone.

but… when I go to the Watch app on my iPhone, there are no photos or music that I can erase…

What can I do to solve this ?

Answer :

In case you get a ‘Storage Full’ warning and you have an AppleWatch Series 3, your only option is to Unpair & Update, as you cannot erase any content manually. If you have a newer AppleWatch (an SE-Series, Series 4 or up) you can erase some content manually, so you could restart you AppleWatch and see if that helps, or you could try freeing up space by deleting media or apps. Here’s how to Unpair & Update :

  • on your iPhone, open the Watch-app
  • now, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together during the entire process (so the connection between the two will not be broken)
  • in the Watch-app, click the My Watch icon (bottom left) first, then click “My Watches” (top left)
  • in the “All Watches” window that opens, make sure that the AppleWatch you want to unpair is selected ( not really relevant if you only have one AppleWatch )
  • then, click on the INFO-icon (the i-in-a-circle icon) next to the selected AppleWatch
  • in the “Apple Watch” window that opens, click on “Unpair Apple Watch” (bottom left)
  • then, type your AppleID password when asked
  • note : upon request, make sure to select to keep your cellular plan if you have a GPS+Cellular AppleWatch
  • now click to confirm the unpairing
  • note : if you get a message that the unpairing might have gone wrong, and the AppleWatch is no longer listed in the Watch-app on your iPhone, try resetting your AppleWatch by long-pressing the Side Button until the SOS-slider appears ; then click the power button that also appeared (top right) ; if that still doesn’t unpair the AppleWatch properly, select “Erase all content” from the Settings menu
  • note : upon request, disable Activation Lock by entering your AppleID password
  • your iPhone will now create a backup of your AppleWatch’s content & apps before erasing your AppleWatch (if needed, you can use that backup to restore to a ‘clean’ Apple Watch)
  • after the AppleWatch has been erased, start by setting it up as a new AppleWatch
  • to do so, make sure your AppleWatch and iPhone are close together and follow the onscreen instructions
  • when done, you have a ‘new’ (but ’empty’) AppleWatch, and the latest available version of WatchOS will be installed
  • now, you will probably want to reinstall your apps & content from your backup – to do so, do this :
  • unpair the AppleWatch again
  • then setup your AppleWatch once again from your iPhone, but this time, upon request, choose “restore from backup” (not “set up as new”)

that’s it !

enjoy 😉

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fixed : is there a need for a Philips HUE Bridge when you have a Google Nest Hub ?

Question :

We have a Google Nest Hub setup in our home and we are going to buy some Philips HUE lamps somewhere in the near future. Do we need the Philips HUE Bridge to control the HUE lamps from the Nest Hub or not ?

 

Answer :

No, not really, you can control your Philips HUE lights directly from your Google Nest Hub on-screen (or using voice assistant).

The added value of using the Philips HUE Bridge over using Bluetooth :

  • connect up to 50 HUE lights (vs. max. 10 using Bluetooth)
  • connect any Zigbee-compatible smart light from any other brand (vs. Philips HUE lights only using Bluetooth)
  • connect to any connected Zigbee-compatible smart light in or around your home (vs.  connecting only to Philips HUE lights within ca. 10m using Bluetooth)
  • control your HUE Bridge and connected smart lights from anywhere in the world (vs. connecting to local Philips HUE lights only
  • option to use Apple HomeKit to control your HUE Bridge and connected smart lights (vs. no Apple HomeKit compatibility using Bluetooth : Google Home or Amazon Alexa only)

Here’s how to set this up without a Philips HUE Bridge :

  • make sure you have setup your Philips HUE lights in Google Home.app
  • swipe down from the top of the screen on your Google Nest Hub
  • in the pull down window, you will see your HUE lights listed
  • click on the HUE lights you want to adjust and adjust the lights as you wish
  • you can even select routines if you have set them up in Google Home.app (like daily routines to use when you’re out of home)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : non-responsive AppleWatch when picking up phone call

Question :

I have both an iPhone and an AppleWatch. The AppleWatch is very convenient as an iPhone-microphone&speaker when receiving a call in an unexpected situation (like riding a bike or driving a car). I used to be able to pick up an incoming phone call on my AppleWatch easily, but now my AppleWatch seems unresponsive…

What could be wrong ?

 

Answer :

If your AppleWatch does respond to your touches in all other situations and only seems unresponsive when trying to pick up te phone, make sure that :

just quickly tap once on the green microphone-button on your watch-screen !

if you touch the button repeatedly or if you tap and hold the button, your AppleWatch will not pick up the phone call… just tap once quickly !

…and your AppleWatch will turn into a handsfree microphone&speaker

That’s it 😉

fixed : Logitech Craft keyboard not recognized during macOS 10.14 Mojave startup

Question :

I have bought this great Logitech Craft keyboard and it works perfectly. I love it. With it’s backlit keys, it’s programmable crown-dial, it’s USB-C charging, it’s multiple device-switching and it’s very responsive keyboard keys, it’s a joy to work with and a very interesting alternative for Apple’s own Extended Magic Keyboard at roughly the same price point if you shop around.

The only problem is : when I start up (or restart) my Mac, the keyboard isn’t recognized so I can’t type my password to unlock my Mac…

When using the Carft keyboard with my MacBook Pro that isn’t a huge problem, since I can just open the MacBook Pro and use the built-in keyboard to bypass this, but with my new Mac mini… I’m stuck…

The only option I could come up with is to keep an old USB-keyboard connected to my Mac mini and just use it for loggin in only… but that’s not a very tempting solution…

Isn’t there any alternative solution ?

 

Answer :

Yes, there is… there are actually 3 alternative solutions (option 3 is the most versatile in my opinion) :

  1. use your Apple Watch to login on macOS Mojave (of course, this won’t work if you don’t wear an Apple Watch…)
  2. use the on-screen keyboard during login (the so called Accessibility Keyboard that you can use when only your mouse or touchpad is recognized)
  3. use Logitech’s Unifying Receiver (the 2.4GHz RF-connection USB-plug that came with your Craft keyboard)

1. To enable your Apple Watch to unlock macOS Mojave, do this :

  • go to Settings.app
  • click on “Security & Privacy”
  • in the window that opens, click on the “General”-tab
  • put a check mark at  “Allow your Apple Watch to unlock your Mac”
  • then use the “<“-button to go back to the main Settings screen
  • then exit Settings.app (by clicking on the red dot top left)
  • now, you’ll only need to make sure you wear your Apple Watch and have it unlocked before you try to login on your Mac… (this seems trivial, but turns out to be complicated from time to time…)

2. To enable the on-screen keyboard during login, do this :

  • go to Settings.app
  • click on “Users & Groups”
  • in the window that opens, click on “Login Options”
  • then, click on the “Accessibility Options”-button
  • in the window that opens, put a check mark at “Accessibility Keyboard” and click the “Apply”-button
  • then use the “<“-button to go back to the main Settings screen
  • then exit Settings.app (by clicking on the red dot top left)

3. To setup the connection with your Craft keyboard using the “Unifying Adapter”, do this :

  • find the Unifying Receiver (the USB-plug) that came with your Craft keyboard… it might still be in the original box… if you can’t find it, you can get a new one here or at Logitech (Logitech charges $15 or €13 plus shipping for it)
  • plug the Unifying Receiver in one of the USB-ports on your Mac (or in a USB-port of a USB-hub that is connected to your Mac)
  • go to Settings.app
  • click on “Bluetooth”
  • in the “Devices”-list click on the Craft keyboard, the non the X-marked dot that appears on the right side of it (to un-pair the Craft keyboard from your Mac)
  • then go to https://support.logitech.com/en_us/downloads and download the latest version of the Logitech Options software
  • install the Logitech Options software on your Mac
  • then, go to Logitech Options.app and follow the directions to pair your Craft keyboard to your Unifying Receiver
  • note that in macOS 10.14 Mojave you will need to also allow Logitech Options.app in the Privacy settings, to do so do this :
    • go to Settings.app
    • click on “Security & Privacy”
    • in the window that opens, click on the “Privacy”-tab
    • then, click on “Accessibility” in the list on the left
    • then, put a check mark at “Logitech Options Deamon” on the right
    • then use the “<“-button to go back to the main Settings screen
    • then exit Settings.app (by clicking on the red dot top left)

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

fixed : no sound on otherwise great FREE interval training watchOS app

Question :

I have finally found a completely FREE app that I can use on my AppleWatch for interval training like TIIN and Tabata. It’s called “Intervals – Timer for Workouts (Tabata, HIIT, etc)“. And it’s fully customizable too.

I have been using it very happily for about a month now, but a few days ago the bell sound  that helps me switch from running to resting and back without looking on my AppleWatch has suddenly stopped working. Now I only get a buzz, but that’s too faint to notice during workouts most of the time.

What is wrong ?

 

Answer :

The solution is so simple, you may have overlooked it :

  • on your AppleWatch in standard view, slide up to see the buttons for WiFi, Airplane Mode, Night Mode, etc.
  • slide up again to see the rest of the buttons
  • bottom left, you’ll see the Bell-button crossed-out in red : click it to reactivate (so the button’s color will be back to gray)
  • now, your (bell) sound will be back when you ar e using the app on your AppleWatch

That’s It 😉

enjoy !

test : best sleep tracker next to AppleWatch ?

Question :

My AppleWatch is great. The only thing it doesn’t do, since you need to charge it every night, is sleep tracking.

Which sleep tracker would you recommend next to an AppleWatch ?

 

Answer :

If the only thing you really need is sleep tracking, I would still recommend an armband-like device. Armband-like sleep tracking devices are easier to carry around if you go on a business trip or holiday, they don’t require you to lie nearly still in your bed and they’re far less expensive than the other sleep tracking devices available. The only reason not to use an armband-like sleep tracking device is if you need extremely in-depth sleep tracking because of medical reasons.

Since you already own an AppleWatch and an iPhone (or iPad) to run the Watch-app on, you also have the iOS Health-app, so there isn’t any need for more than an extremely basic display on your sleep tracking armband device. Keep in mind that you don’t need a display while you’re sleeping, you can’t even use it during sleep…

Based on this observation, you’re best option is to choose the most basic and most affordable armband-like sleep tracker you can find. I’ve been testing these 2 side by side for a while now :

Xaiomi MiBand 1S : about €20 : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Jawbone UP Move : about €15 : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

As an alternative, you might also consider the “upgraded versions” :

Xaiomi MiBand 2 : about €35  : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Jawbone UP2 : about €40 : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Jawbone UP3 : about €55 : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

Fitbit Flex 2 : about €85 : buy it on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de

But, in the end, if it’s mainly for sleep tracking, these “upgraded versions” are quite a bit more expensive, but still, keep in mind that they are only different in features that have no added value for you since you already have an AppleWatch.

Reasons to choose the MiBand 1S over the UP Move (or the other way around) :

Xaiomi MiBand 1S – the pros :

  • automatically detects whether you are sleeping or not
  • USB-rechargeable battery ; one charge last at least one month
  • good quality armband ; no traces of wear and tear even after extensive use
  • very nice iOS MiFit-app
  • can be worn all day
  • minimalistic design
  • can take over activity tracking and (manual !) heart rate measuring when you’re not wearing your AppleWatch

Xaiomi MiBand 1S – the cons :

  • maybe not as waterproof as claimed ; probably water-resistant or splash-proof at the most, but suitable for showering (maybe not for swimming)
  • quality of individual devices differs, some may only last for a month or so
  • reset includes strange ‘put it in the fridge’ procedure
  • if something doesn’t work there’s hardly any feedback to what’s wrong
  • no way to directly use it as input device for iOS Health-app ; the MiFit-app is always needed
  • will irritate the skin when worn tightly (which is needed for heart rate measuring, but which you don’t need since you have an AppleWatch)

Jawbone UP Move – the pros :

  • easily exchangeable CR2032 cell battery ; will last up to 6 months per battery
  • very good iOS UP-app includes interactive coaching (sleep coaching also)
  • can be worn nearly all day (not for swimming or showering)
  • simple reset option (just take out the battery)
  • can take over activity tracking when you’re not wearing your AppleWatch (not heart rate measuring)

Jawbone UP Move – the cons :

  • switching to sleep tracking must be done manually
  • quality of the bracelet strap is dubious ; tends to break unrepairable after a few months
  • splash-proof only (not for showering)
  • design is slightly bulky compared to minimalistic armbands
  • no way to directly use it as input device for iOS Health-app ; the MiFit-app is always needed

CONCLUDING :

Both the Xaiomi MiBand 1S and the Jawbone UP Move are great choices ar sleep trackers next to your AppleWatch. Personally, I slightly prefer the MiBand 1S because of the fact that it automatically switches to sleep tracking when you fall asleep.

Note :

There is a reason that both the newer Jawbone UP3 and the Fitbit Flex 2 have nearly the same design as the older MiBand 1S : this design is the ‘near perfect’ design for such a simple armband device. In my opinion, the only reason to prefer the Fitbit Flex 2 over the MiBand 1S is the fact that is is very well suited for swimming… but it’s up to you to decide if that’s worth the extreme price difference, especially if you already own an AppleWatch.

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fixed : I want to block AppleWatch watch face from changing unintentionally

Question :

Sometimes, when I look on my Apple Watch to check the time, the watch face has suddenly changed to something completely different.

Now, each time this happens, I have to open the Watch-app on my iPhone and reselect my preferred watch face and set it as “My Current Watch Face” to get things back to normal…

Isn’t there an easy way to prevent that my watch face will suddenly change into something different ? I’ve looked in on my Apple Watch and in the iOS Watch-app, but I can’t find a setting to block this…

What am I doing wrong ?

 

Answer :

Since you have unintentionally set multiple watch faces in “My Watch Faces”, you’re watch face will change if you swipe left or right when your current watch face is displayed.

Simply put : it’s a feature, not a bug.

To be more precise : this is a feature for people who want different watch faces for different activities like “Work”, “Home”, “Sports”, etc. ; but anyone who has no need for this feature, or never thought this could be handy, it seems like erratic behavior whenever the watch face ‘suddenly’ changes…

To fix this :

  • on your iPhone (or iPad), open the Watch-app
  • the “My Watch” screen opens
  • at “MY FACES”, see how many watch faces you have set
  • click on “Edit” (in orange)
  • in the “My Faces” screen that opens, delete all watch faces you don’t want or need, except for the “Current Watch Face”
  • then click “Done” (in orange)
  • then exit the Watch-app

that’s it 😉

enjoy !

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