fixed : EyeTV won’t run in macOS Catalina

Question :

I’ve been using EyeTV for many years as my favorite TV-watching software, but since I recently upgrade to macOS 10.15 Catalina, the EyeTV software will no longer run…

What can I do ?

 

Answer :

The EyeTV version you have is version 3.5 or older, which is a 32bit application. Unfortunately macOS 10.15 Catalina is the first macOS that only supports 64bit applications.

UPDATED INFO :

Geniatech (who took over EyeTV from Elgato) has released the 64bit version of EyeTV for macOS 10.15 Catalina. It’s simply called EyeTV 4 and is available now from the Geniatech website :

eyetv 4 (64-bit) macOS

NOTE : If you had previously installed the EyeTV 4 Beta (64bit) version, you should probably be best off with uninstalling that version first using the EyeTV Reporter (64-BIT) before you install the new EyeTV 4

 


PREVIOUS INFO :

Geniatech (who took over EyeTV from Elgato) has run into a lot of delay while reprogramming EyeTV as a 64bit application, but they now have EyeTV 4 in Public Beta, so anyone is invited to test :

Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta preview

This preview software will not work beyond November 30th 2019 !!

To get it working, do this :

  • download the software from the download-link you find in Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta preview
  • open your Downloads folder and double-click on the EyeTV dmg-file
  • in the window that opens, drag the EyeTV icon over to the Applications folder
  • in the warning screen that opens, click on the “Keep Both”-button or “Replace”-button
  • then, in the Applications folder, double-click on the EyeTV icon (if you have two, choose the one that doesn’t have the traffic sign over it)
  • in the warning screen (“cannot check for malicious software”) click OK
  • then, open System Preferences
  • in the window that opens, click on “Security & Privacy”
  • in the next window, make sure the “General”-tab is selected
  • if you see the text “EyeTV was blocked from use because it is not from an identified developer” click the “Open Anyway”-botton
  • if you do not see that text, go back and try to run the EyeTV application first/again
  • after clicking “Open Anyway” a warning screen opens, where you should click OK
  • in the next window Administrator Access is needed, so typ your admin password (usually the password you use to unlock your Mac)
  • in the next window you need to give EyeTV permission to access your Documents folder, if you don’t want that click “Don’t Allow”, else click OK
  • now the “Welcome to EyeTV” window opens, click “Next”
  • in the next window (licence agreement), click “Next” (you have to… not a real option)
  • in the pop-up window, click “Agree” (again : not a real option)
  • in the next window, select your country and click “Next”
  • in the next window, make sure your TV-reception-device (usually an EyeTV USB-stick or alike – if you use a “MyGica DVB-T2 (T230C)” choose the corresponding “EyeTV T2 Hybrid”) is selected and click “Next”
  • in the next window, enter one of the 5 serial keys (activation keys) that are given on the Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta preview webpage
  • in the next window, make sure you have your TV-reception-device (EyeTV USB-stick) plugged in, then click “Next”
  • in the next window, click “Next”
  • in the next window, just click “Next” (and set this up later if you need to)
  • in the next window, just click “Next” (and set this up later if you need to)
  • in the next window, if a window with a TV broadcast has already been opened in the background, just click “Next” (if not, click “Auto-tune”)
  • in the next window, click “Finish”
  • in the pop-up window that appears, typ your admin password
  • then you may get another pop-up window where you need to give EyeTV permission to access your Documents folder, if you don’t want that click “Don’t Allow”, else click OK

…that’s it ! you can now use EyeTV on macOS Catalina (until November 30th that is…)

Note : this is beta-software, so it will probably still contain a few bugs and could therefore quit unexpectedly at any moment and some features may not fully be operational – so it is advised not to use  beta-software like this for business or production purposes

fixed : which cable to quickly migrate data to new Mac ?

Question :

I just got myself a new Mac. Ofcourse, I am using the Migration Assistant to transfer the data from my old Mac to my new Mac, but my new Mac is a MacBook Pro that only has USB-C ports… and my old Mac doesn’t have any USB-C ports…

What is the best way to transfer / migrate my data ? Should I use WiFi or a cable ?

 

Answer :

You could migrate your data over WiFi, but that is less stable than a cable-connection and therefore usually more time-consuming.

The fastest way would be to use a Thunderbolt3-cable that has a USB-C connector on one end and a traditional Thunderbolt connector on the other… but those are extremely expensive and therefore not worth to buy if you’re going to use it for migrating your old data only.

Your best option is to use a far cheaper USB3.1-to-USB-C-cable, like this one :

AmazonBasics USB3.1-to-USB-C-cable (buy from Amazon.com)

AmazonBasics USB3.1-to-USB-C-cable (buy from Amazon.co.uk)

AmazonBasics USB3.1-to-USB-C-cable (buy from Amazon.de)

Note 1 : such a cable is also included with most USB-C enabled external SSDs, so you might already have one lying around – just make sure that the one you use is USB3.1-compatilbe

Note 2 : if you are considering using a regular USB-to-USB-cable together with a USB-to-USB-C-adapter… don’t do so ! That will in most cases mean that you are making a USB2-connection which is far slower than a USB3.1-connection

Note 3 : if you are considering using an Ethernet-cable together with a USB-C-to-Ethernet-adapter… don’t do so ! An Ethernet-cable is not as straight forward to set up, and most likely it will contain a USB2-maxed component, so it will be far slower than a USB3.1-connection and be far more expensive

enjoy !

fixed : merge persons (faces) in Photos.app

Question :

While going through photos in Photos.app, I opened the People-library to see if there were any new faces that I should identify to connect them to the right person.

To my surprise I found that some people had 2 separate entries in the People-library : they were listed once with a group of photos with them in it, and another time with another group of photos that also had them in it, but the 2 groups were completely separate.

Is there an easy way to tell Photos.app that both are the same person ?

 

Answer :

The easiest way to make Photos.app see both groups of photos as referring to the same individual is to merge the 2 entries,. To do so, do this :

  • open Photos.app
  • listed at the left of the window that opens, you’ll see ‘Library’
  • select the ‘People’ chapter from the list
  • in the window that opens, you will see thumbnails of various people, each representing a group of photos that are identified to have that one person on them
  • if you see a duplicate (i.e. if you see that any particular person is listed twice), select one, then press [CMD] and select the other one with this person in them
  • then right-click on the last thumbnail (of the 2) you have selected and select ‘Merge 2 people’ from the dropdown menu
  • now, both entries will be reduced to only one with all those photos in it

That’s is !

enjoy 😉

fixed : easiest way to hide & unhide hidden files on your Mac

Question :

Yesterday my text editor app crashed, and even though I had automatic saving turned on, I can’t find the automatically saved latest version anywhere…

I expect I might find it in the hidden files and folders on my Mac.

What is the best app to hide (and unhide) hidden files on my Mac ?

( Note : I know this can be done using the Terminal, but I’m very hesitant towards using the Terminal.app )

 

Answer :

When your Mac is running macOS 10.12 Sierra or newer, you don’t need Terminal.app or any other application to toggle between showing and hiding hidden files, you can now use a simple key-combo to do this :

simultaniously typ [SHIFT] + [CMD] + [.] to (un)hide invisible files

That’s it !

enjoy 😉

 

Note #1 : this is even the simplest and quickest way to open the User’s Library folder.

Note #2 : if your Mac is running MacOSX 10.11 El_Capitan or older, you cannot use this key combo, so you’ll need to use an application like HideSwitch.app or ShowHiddenFiles.app or Funter.app (or the Terminal.app) to hide/unhide invisible files

 

fixed : typing a spiritus asper in an Ancient Greek text on Mac or PC

Question :

I am learning Classical Greek (a.k.a. Ancient Greek) in school, and I want to typ words on my computers (both Mac and PC) to improve my vocabulary.

I found I can add a Greek keyboard layout (on both my Mac and my PC) so I now am able to all Greek letters, but it turns out that this these are Modern Greek letters… these are generally the same, but Modern Greek doesn’t have any of the accents I need in Classical Greek. I especially need to be able to typ the ‘spiritus asper’ (a.k.a. the H-sound accent) and the ‘iota subscriptum’ (a.k.a. the I-sound that can be added to e.g. an Omega).

Is there any way to ‘switch on’ typing Classical Greek on my Mac (and PC) ?

 

Answer :

To be able to typ the accents of Classical Greek, you need to enable the ‘Greek Polytonic’ keyboard.

in macOS, you can activate the Greek Polytonic keyboard by doing this :

  • go to Apple-menu (Apple-icon top-left in the menu bar) –> System Preferences –> Keyboard –> Input Sources (tab)
  • on the left, your currently installed keyboard-layout(s) is/are listed
  • click on the +button just below the list of installed keyboard-layouts
  • in the window that opens, in the Search Field, typ “greek”
  • on the right, two keyboard-layouts will be listed : “Greek” and “Greek – Polytonic”
  • choose “Greek – Polytonic” and click the Add-button
  • then make sure there is a check-mark at “Show Input menu in menu bar”
  • then exit System Preferences
  • now, whenever you want to typ Ancient Greek, go to the little flag-icon top-right in the menu bar and select “Greek – Polytonic” from the dropdown list
  • and after you’re done typing Ancient Greek, go to the little black flag with the Epsilon top-right in the menu bar and select your regular keyboard layout from the dropdown list

in Windows 10, you can activate the Greek Polytonic keyboard by doing this :

  • go to the Start Button bottom-left and typ “region and language” in the search field, then press Enter
  • in the window that opens, at Languages, click “Add a language” and typ “greek” in the search field
  • then, select “Greek”
  • then, at Languages, select “Greek” and click “Set as default”
  • then, at Languages, choose “Greek” and click the “Options”-button
  • now, at Keyboards, click “Add a keyboard”
  • then, choose “Greek Polytonic”
  • to simplify things, I suggest deleting other Greek keyboards from the list of activated keyboards
  • then exit
  • now you can switch between your main keyboard-layout and the Greek Polytonic keyboard-layout by pressing the {WINDOWS}+{SPACE} key-combo on your keyboard

To get the ‘spiritus asper’ (a.k.a. the H-sound accent) in your Classical Greek text, typ this : {SHIFT}+{ ‘ } to get the ‘spiritus asper’, then the A/E/R/V/Y/H/I/O-key to get the Alpha/Epsilon/Rho/Omega/Upsilon/Etha/Iota/Omicron-letter you need underneath the ‘spiritus asper’.

To get the ‘iota subscriptum’ in your Classical Greek text, typ this : {SHIFT}+{ [ } (in which { [ } is the [-key on your keyboard) to get the ‘iota subscriptum’, then the V-key to get the Omega-letter you need above the ‘iota subscriptum’.

To get the ‘regular sigma’ in your Classical Greek text, typ { S }

To get the ‘word-ending sigma’ in your Classical Greek text, typ { W }

to get the ‘Greek question mark’ in your Classical Greek text, typ { Q } which will give you the ; (semi-colon) which is Classical Greek for a ? (question mark).

That’s it !

enjoy 😉