Tag Archives: not working

fixed : trackpad moving but not clicking after sleep mode

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Question :
I have a MacBook Air M4 and it works great. But there’s a problem that I’m encountering that I’ve never seen before on any of my Macs : when my MacBook wakes from sleep mode, I can move the cursor without any problems, but clicking the trackpad to do a ‘mouse click’ to activate anything on screen doesn’t work… the only solution I’ve found until now is to reboot my MacBook using the power button, but that is a very annoying solution…

Is my MacBook’s trackpad broken ? Or is this a software problem that I can fix myself ?

Answer :
There is a small chance you have run into a hardware failure (meaning your MacBook’s trackpad is broken), but it’s far more logical that the problem you are encountering is a software problem :
Did you recently use a wireless Magic Mouse with your MacBook maybe ?
If so, just make sure you have your Magic Mouse turned OFF when you’re not using it.
That’s it !

Even if your Magic Mouse is in another room and/or in a bag, it can interfere with your MacBook’s trackpad, especially after waking from sleep your MacBook can automatically connect to the Magic Mouse and if anything is pressing on it, your MacBook will think that you are already clicking the mouse button and therefore it will not register any clicking of the mousepad…
If you manually switch OFF your Magic Mouse if you’re done using it (so before you put it in your laptop case), your problem will be fixed.

The above could also occur if you use another type or brand of bluetooth mouse (or external trackpad, controller or joystick) with your MacBook.

If you have never used a bluetooth mouse or controller with your MacBook and you still encounter this problem, it will usually be fixed by resetting the PRAM (and NVRAM) :
– shut down your MacBook
– restart your MacBook using the power button
– then, immediately (during the first stage of reboot) press and hold this key-combo :
[CMD]+[ALT]+[P]+[R]
– keep holding the key-combo when your MacBook restarts
– release the key-combo when you hear the macOS startup chime (sound) for the second time and wait for your MacBook to start up

That’s it !

enjoy πŸ˜‰

fixed : Delete needless empty page that is created at end of Pages document

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Question :

I am creating a one-page document in Apple Pages with a complex layout and all is well until I drag my text boxes too close to the edges of the page… then a new blank page (with header and footer) is created that I can’t delete…

I’ve tried the things that used to work in previous versions of Pages (and work in MS Word), like selecting the page in the thumbnails, but than I get a warning saying “Are you sure you want to delete all content from your document?” and if I click Delete assuming that that will only delete the blank page, it will delete the entire layout-ed page and only leave the blank page (so… exactly the opposite of what I intended) …and if I try the other ‘proven solution’ of setting the cursor on the blank page an then deleting all invisible content on that page by repeatedly pressing the Backspace and/or the Delete key… nothing happens…

What is wrong and how can I fix this ?

Answer :

In the newer versions of Apple Pages (like Pages version 13) you need to choose if your document is going to be a Text Editor document (e.g. an old-style Word document) or a Layout document (e.g. a PowerPoint/Keynote-style document with layout and text boxes). If you want to make your Pages document a Layout document, you have to change that manually, as a new Pages document is set to be a Text Editor document by default. To fix that, do this :

  • have your document open in Pages
  • click on the ‘Document’ button (top right in the icon bar of the document window, next to ‘Format’)
  • in the side panel that opens on the right select the ‘Document’ tab (next to ‘Section’ and “Bookmarks’)
  • go to the bottom of the ‘Page Orientation’ chapter (just above the ‘Document Margins’ chapter)
  • there, make sure the checkbox at ‘Document Body’ is empty (by clicking on the checkmark if there is any)
  • then click ‘Convert’ in the popup screen
  • then select the unwanted blank last page in the thumbnails on the left and press the ‘Delete’ or ‘Backspace’ key on your keyboard… and the troublesome blank last page will disappear…

…that’s it !

enjoy πŸ˜‰

fixed : replacement HUE lamp not working properly in Google Home group

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Question :

I had a Philips HUE lamp that went rogue after 4 years of working without any problems, so I had to replace it with a new one. Installation was easy (as always) : it was immediately recognised by my HUE Bridge and there is no problem when I use it with the HUE.app (I am not using the HUE(Bluetooth).app since I have an HUE Bridge). Even the HUE Remote that controls to the group of lights that the old HUE lamp is in, immediately integrated the replacement HUE lamp.

But when I want to control my HUE lights from my Google Home devices and apps, all lights are still controlled properly, but not the newly replaced HUE lamp… I can’t control it from Google Home… What is wrong ?

Answer :

After connecting the new Philips HUE lamp to the HUE Bridge and the HUE.app, you need to also reconnect it to Google Home manually… Philips HUE doesn’t automatically update in Google Home (or the other way around)… To get things working in Google Home, do this :

  • make sure that the new HUE lamp is working properly with the HUE.app and all HUE Remotes as intended
  • then, make sure the group of lights that the new/repaced HUE lamp is in is turned on (so all lights of the group should be burning)
  • now, open the GoogleHome.app on your iPhone (or iPad)
  • when the “Home” page opens, click on the “Settings” button (the one with the sprocket/gear-icon)
  • in the “Home settings” page that opens, scroll down to the bottom and click on “Works with Google”
  • in the “Add Devices” page that opens, you will see a “Linked” chapter and a “Add new” chapter below ; since you already have your HUE lights set up in Google Home previously, you can click on “Philips HUE” in the “Linked” chapter
  • in the small popup menu that opens, click on “Check for new devices”
  • when the auth.meethue.com online login page opens, login to your Philips HUE account using your eMail address and your password
  • in the “Grant permission” webpage that opens, scroll down to the bottom and click on the blue “Grant permission” button
  • now the “Add Devices” page in the Googlehome.app opens, and at the bottom a message saying “Philips HUE is linked” will show
  • then, the “Choose device” page will automatically open where you see all your HUE lights and devices that are currently not connected to Google Home, so select the HUE lamp’s icon tile that you have replaced and click “Next”
  • in the “Connect Home” page that opens, drag&drop the HUE lamp’s icon tile onto the correct HOME icon tile (usually the HOME location that you have setup in Google Home) [ note that you can only connect the lamp to one home ] then click “Next”
  • in the “Connect Groups” page that opens, drag&drop the HUE lamp’s icon tile onto each and every GROUP icon tile (of lights and devices) you want the HUE lamp to be in, one after the other
  • when done, click “Next” and the GoogleHome.app will update
  • when done, back in the “Home” page, scroll down to the proper group and test what happens when you turn the group of lights off and back on
  • if everything works properly, you’re done
  • if you run into a problem (now or maybe later on), try this :
  • turn on all HUE lights
  • turn off all running GoogleHome.apps on all devices you have and unplug all Google Home speakers, Google Home displays and Nest Hubs
  • after at least 30 seconds, plug all Google Home speakers/displays and Nest Hubs back in and wait for them to restart
  • now, test if the group of HUE lights that includes the replaced HUE lamp works as intended when using one of the restarted Google Home speakers/displays or Nest Hubs (if it works on one Google Home device, it will work on all the one that have been restarted)
  • also test if the group of HUE lights that includes the replaced HUE lamp works as intended when using the GoogleHome.app on your iPhone (or iPad)
  • now, everything should work as intended (in the very unlikely event that it does not, redo all of the above)

that’s it !

enjoy πŸ˜‰

fixed : 70mai Dash Cam only records one segment then stops

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Question :

I have a 70mai Dash Cam Pro+ A800 with the RC06 Rear Cam which works great, but I happened to notice that it only records the 1st minute of every time I drive my car after starting. So, in the 70mai.app, when I go into the album, I can see recordings from both the Dash Cam and the Rear Cam, and I can see all types of recordings, like parking and emergency recordings, but of every regular journey only the first minute is recorded. So for some reason loop recording is not working as intended.

What is wrong and how can I fix it ?

Answer :

As it turns out, not every microSD card that meets the official requirements (a microSD SDXC U3 card of Class 10 or above with at least 32GB) works with the 70mai Dash Cam Pro+ A800/A800S 4K UltraHD (with RC06 Rear Cam).

The only microSD card that is sure to work as intended with this Dash Cam is the Samsung EVO Plus SDXC U3 Class 10 A2 130MB/s of at least 32GB, so we recommend something like this :

Samsung EVO Plus SDXC U3 Class 10 A2 130MB/s 128GB

Just replace your current microSD card with one of the above mentioned Samsung EVO Plus microSD cards, have the Dash Cam format it and you’re good to go !

enjoy πŸ˜‰

fixed : EyeTV won’t run in macOS Catalina

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Question :

I’ve been using EyeTV for many years as my favorite TV-watching software, but since I recently upgrade to macOS 10.15 Catalina, the EyeTV software will no longer run…

What can I do ?

 

Answer :

The EyeTV version you have is version 3.5 or older, which is a 32bit application. Unfortunately macOS 10.15 Catalina is the first macOS that only supports 64bit applications.

UPDATED INFO :

Geniatech (who took over EyeTV from Elgato) has released the 64bit version of EyeTV for macOS 10.15 Catalina. It’s simply called EyeTV 4 and is available now from the Geniatech website :

eyetv 4 (64-bit) macOS

NOTE : If you had previously installed the EyeTV 4 Beta (64bit) version, you should probably be best off with uninstalling that version first using the EyeTV Reporter (64-BIT)Β before you install the new EyeTV 4

 

PREVIOUS INFO :

Geniatech (who took over EyeTV from Elgato) has run into a lot of delay while reprogramming EyeTV as a 64bit application, but they now have EyeTV 4 in Public Beta, so anyone is invited to test :

Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta preview

This preview software will not work beyond November 30th 2019 !!

To get it working, do this :

  • download the software from the download-link you find in Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta preview
  • open your Downloads folder and double-click on the EyeTV dmg-file
  • in the window that opens, drag the EyeTV icon over to the Applications folder
  • in the warning screen that opens, click on the “Keep Both”-button or “Replace”-button
  • then, in the Applications folder, double-click on the EyeTV icon (if you have two, choose the one that doesn’t have the traffic sign over it)
  • in the warning screen (“cannot check for malicious software”) click OK
  • then, open System Preferences
  • in the window that opens, click on “Security & Privacy”
  • in the next window, make sure the “General”-tab is selected
  • if you see the text “EyeTV was blocked from use because it is not from an identified developer” click the “Open Anyway”-botton
  • if you do not see that text, go back and try to run the EyeTV application first/again
  • after clicking “Open Anyway” a warning screen opens, where you should click OK
  • in the next window Administrator Access is needed, so typ your admin password (usually the password you use to unlock your Mac)
  • in the next window you need to give EyeTV permission to access your Documents folder, if you don’t want that click “Don’t Allow”, else click OK
  • now the “Welcome to EyeTV” window opens, click “Next”
  • in the next window (licence agreement), click “Next” (you have to… not a real option)
  • in the pop-up window, click “Agree” (again : not a real option)
  • in the next window, select your country and click “Next”
  • in the next window, make sure your TV-reception-device (usually an EyeTV USB-stick or alike – if you use a “MyGica DVB-T2 (T230C)” choose the corresponding “EyeTV T2 Hybrid”) is selected and click “Next”
  • in the next window, enter one of theΒ 5 serial keys (activation keys) that are given on the Geniatech EyeTV 4 Public Beta previewΒ webpage
  • in the next window, make sure you have your TV-reception-device (EyeTV USB-stick) plugged in, then click “Next”
  • in the next window, click “Next”
  • in the next window, just click “Next” (and set this up later if you need to)
  • in the next window, just click “Next” (and set this up later if you need to)
  • in the next window, if a window with a TV broadcast has already been opened in the background, just click “Next” (if not, click “Auto-tune”)
  • in the next window, click “Finish”
  • in the pop-up window that appears, typ your admin password
  • then you may get another pop-up window where you need to give EyeTV permission to access your Documents folder, if you don’t want that click “Don’t Allow”, else click OK

…that’s it ! you can now use EyeTV on macOS Catalina (until November 30th that is…)

Note : this is beta-software, so it will probably still contain a few bugs and could therefore quit unexpectedly at any moment and some features may not fully be operational – so it is advised not to use Β beta-software like this for business or production purposes

fixed : FaceID not working properly

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Question :

I’ve set up FaceID on my new iPhone, and it seemed to work just fine at first. But now, it doesn’t seem to work most of the time… most of the time I have to eventually unlock my iPhone with the access code.

I’ve already tried to updateΒ the face-scanning by creating new reference face scans, but that hasn’t led to any improvement in the situation…

This is getting very annoying…

Is there any way to fix this ?

 

Answer :

Having iOS 12 make new face-scans to be more accurate and more forgiving doesn’t seem to help… instead, do this :

  • put your iPhone further away from your face (for FaceID to work, you need to haveΒ  almost your entire face in viewing range of the frontal selfie camera)
  • if your iPhone is on the table, pick it up and hold it in your hand, or move your head directly above the frontal selfie camera, this will vastly increase your chances of being recognised (if you are used to reading with the iPhone above or besides your breakfast/lunch/dinner-plate, your drink, your newspaper or your work, your face is only partially in front of the camera and therefore not detectable for FaceID)
  • swipe up from the bottom of the screen one extra time (don’t bother if the screen is already showing the keypad to unlock the screen using your 6-digit-code) it’s odd, but it works about 50% of the time…

Knowing this will save you a lot of frustration…

Enjoy πŸ˜‰

 

fixed : bad audio – is my iPhone broken ? (iOS 10)

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Question :

I have a recent iPhone running iOS10, but lately I can’t hear people calling me and they can’t hear me when I phone them. There is a cracking noise which makes it impossible to use my iPhone for calling.

Is my iPhone broken ?

 

Answer :

Even though we cannot rule out that your iPhone is actually having a broken audio hardware issue on forehand, it’s more likely to be a software problem.

This problem is usually fixed by doing one of these resets ( first, be sure to keep your SIM’s PIN-code at hand as you might need it ) :

reset option #1 :

  • while your iPhone is on, press the physical MENU (on the front screen) and ON/OFF (on top or on the right side) buttons at the same time until the screen goes black and after a few seconds the white Apple-logo reappears
  • wait for your screen to rebuildΒ ; thenΒ your iPhone has been reset and you can test ifΒ your audio works properly while calling

reset option #2 :

  • while your iPhone is on, press the physical ON/OFF button (on the right side of your iPhone) until the ON/OFF slider appears on screen
  • set the ON/OFF slider to OFF and wait for the screen to go black
  • nowΒ turn your iPhone back on by pressing the ON/OFF button and wait for your screen to rebuild ; then your iPhone has been reset and you can test if your audio works properly while calling

usually, that’s it… that’s all you need to fix this…

…but if neither of these resets work for you, your iPhone’s audio hardware is probably broken and you should have your iPhone repaired at an Apple Store or Apple repair-centre.

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